Monday, 30 October 2017

Best Rose Perfumes - Persolaise On Feelunique + Next Episode Of Love At First Scent On Facebook Live

image: Feelunique

A rose is a rose is a rose... but when it's a perfume, it can also be so much more, a delicious phenomenon I explore in my latest article for Feelunique; please click here to read it.

If all goes according to plan, I hope to bring you the next episode of my Facebook Live series - Love At First Scent - this Thursday, 2nd November, at 6:00 pm UK time (2:00 pm New York time) on my Facebook page. To watch the other instalments, please click here. It'll probably be the last episode I'm able to broadcast for several weeks as this is the season when various other commitments take over and I have much less free time than I'd like. If only we had more hours in the day...

Hope to see you on Thursday!


Friday, 27 October 2017

Cinema Scent: Trainspotting (dir. Danny Boyle; 1996)

The layer of scent that is forever hovering a few inches above the surface of Danny Boyle’s Trainspotting (still his best work, arguably) is almost unremittingly scatological. Based on the Irvine Welsh novel and telling the story of a group of addicts stumbling through Edinburgh's drug scene, the film is populated by people who look as though they eat, sleep and get high in the same clothes all the time. It's not surprising that their surroundings - those relentless stretches of peeling wallpaper, the depressing pavements - seem to absorb the odour of sweat, alcohol and cigarettes. Even the colours appear to project a smell: the stench of the interior of Mother Superior’s flat is somehow made more despairing, more piercing, through the use of that deep indigo for the walls.

Wednesday, 25 October 2017

Perfume Gifting Guide - Persolaise Video On Feelunique's YouTube Channel

A little while ago I had the honour of being invited into Feelunique's London studio to record some videos for their YouTube channel. The first result of our efforts is now online, so I'd be extremely grateful if you could spare a few moments to watch it... and maybe even give a 'thumbs up' and leave a comment. The topic of this particular instalment is the tricky issue of choosing a perfume for someone when you don't know exactly what they like.

If you'd prefer to watch the video on the YouTube site, please click here.


Friday, 20 October 2017

Persolaise Review: Noir Anthracite from Tom Ford (2017)

My teachers were right: perspective is everything. When you get close to Noir Anthracite (a flanker which, despite its name, shares few features with the original Noir from 2012) your experience is promising. Moonlit minerals. Brooding gunpowder. Sparks lining the edges of polished flint. Maybe some flames too, but no towering ostentations. This isn't a raging bonfire, which is apt, given that the Oracle (ie Wikipedia) tells us anthracite “burns with little flame and smoke”. However, things change when you take a step back. Instead of forming an attractive sillage when they coalesce, all those elements turn into a wall of brash, typically 70s-inflected, Tom Ford patchouli, with an off-putting wood facet and a dubiously aggressive attitude. Ford makes no apologies about his love for older scent codes - and so he shouldn’t, as they’ve often led him to gorgeous creations - but here, the time warp idea reminds you that the decade of flares and disco balls was also the era of bigotry towards women and mass social disillusionment. In other words, it’s just a bit too chest-wig-heavy. When not one, but three people come up to you, pull a face and say, “You smell like my dad,” you know the retro vibe has probably been overplayed. Apply with caution. Or maybe only when you’re going to be within stroking distance of everyone around.

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Tom Ford in 2017.]


Wednesday, 18 October 2017

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 7 Now On YouTube

Episode 7 of Love At First Scent is now on YouTube; please watch it by clicking above or by going directly to the YouTube site (click here). In this edition I covered

Velvet Haze from Byredo (at the start of the video)
Paithani from Penhaligon's (at the 17:00 minute mark)
Un Dimanche A La Campagne from Guerlain (at approx. 36:00 mins)
Strength from Ermenegildo Zegna's Elements Of Man range (at approx. 45:00 mins)

The original video - which attracted a great deal of interaction from the people who watched it live - is still on Facebook. Click here to check it out.


Friday, 13 October 2017

Cinema Scent: Blade Runner 2049 (dir. Denis Villeneuve; 2017)

Despite the dubious gender politics, the self-important pace and the portentous hamminess of Jared Leto, it would be churlish to deny that Blade Runner 2049 provides much to enjoy and admire. There are a few genuinely eyebrow-raising surprises in the plot, which sees yet another bedraggled policeman hunting an important replicant. The sound design almost radiates out of the screen like a three-dimensional entity. And the various nods and winks to the original possess a power that goes beyond that of mere nostalgia. So yes, even though I'm not sure it's a sequel we needed, I would urge all fans of the Ridley Scott version to watch it.

Wednesday, 11 October 2017

Next Episode Of Love At First Scent On Friday 13th October 2017

The trouble with live video broadcasts is that you have to fit them into a specific, audience-friendly, day-time slot in your schedule because they're... errmm... live. But despite the odds, the stars have suddenly aligned and it looks like this Friday afternoon will work for my next one. So, all being well, episode 7 of Love At First Scent will be transmitted via my Facebook page on 13th October at 3:30 pm (UK time). On my list of things to sniff will be the unopened sample of the new Byredo above, together with a few goodies from Penhaligon's, Puredistance and Guerlain.

I do hope you'll be able to tune in!


Friday, 6 October 2017

Maiden Call: Thoughts On Chanel Gabrielle, Twilly D'Hermès, Mugler Aura & Gucci Bloom

It’s been brewing for a little while. A mention here. A business report there. But one recent event has turned up the heat and brought the mixture to a boil. And now there’s no avoiding it: the perfume industry is desperate for the cash of young women. Trouble is, desperation is often served with fear.

I’m sure you’ve worked out which event I’m referring to: Chanel’s launch of Gabrielle, their first stand-alone, mainstream, feminine scent for over a decade. It arrives roughly at the same time as Twilly D’Hermès and Gucci Bloom, and not long after Dior’s Poison Girl and Mugler’s Aura. Look a little bit further back and you’ll also find Estée Lauder’s Modern Muse (whose flankers just keep coming) as well as Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noire. All of them - with their marketing, their design and their smells - are clamouring for the attention of females below the age of 30.

Monday, 2 October 2017

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 6 On YouTube

Episode 6 of my Love At First Scent series is now on YouTube; watch it by clicking above or going to the YouTube site (please click here). In this edition I covered

Un Air De Bretagne from L'Artisan Parfumeur
(at around the 3:00 minute mark)
Note Di Colonia IV from Acqua Di Parma (at approx 13:00 mins)
Hemlock and Wolfsbane from Parfums Quartana's Les Potions Fatales collection (at approx 23:00 and 34:00 mins respectively)
Tender from Miller Harris (at approx 45:00 mins)

The original video is still on Facebook (click here), so please head over there if you'd like to see the comments that were left during the broadcast.



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