Friday, 25 January 2019

Persolaise Review: Rêve D'Or from L T Piver (circa 1889)


I know very little about the history of Piver's Rêve D'Or and I'm reluctant to lift the limited amount of information available on the Net - for fear of lenghtening a 'copy-pasted' string of what may be inaccuracies - but one 'fact' that appears fairly consistent is that it was originally made round about the same time as Guerlain's Jicky. What it's been up to since then is a matter I'm happy to leave to the historians for the moment. But what I know about its current state is that it is tricky to find (I'd recommend Brixton Market if you're near London), extremely cheap and very popular in certain North African countries. Oh, and it's really rather beautiful.

Friday, 18 January 2019

Persolaise Review: Impression Cedarwood Heart from Ostens (Alexis Dadier; 2018)



Wearing OstensImpression Cedarwood Heart has made me wonder - not for the first time - why so many of us are averse to green perfumes. They’ve been around long enough to have infiltrated the collective consciousness, yet they consistently fail to perform at the tills, even if they come bearing the Chanel logo: several sales assistants have told me that they can go through a whole year selling no more than a couple of bottles of No. 19 (to which my immediate response is, “If that’s true, thank you very, very much Chanel for continuing to make the stuff!”).

Friday, 11 January 2019

Persolaise Review: Beau De Jour from Tom Ford (2018)


As the rest of us hurtle towards an increasingly frightening 21st century, trust Tom Ford to remain seated aboard his glitter ball and fly even further into the past. Not that I’m complaining, mind you. I don’t think I’m quite ready for 2019, so the arrival of Mr Ford’s new Beau De Jour - as retro-loving a composition as he’s ever given us - is very welcome indeed. At heart a lavender-geranium-rosemary fougère (interestingly, Chanel’s Boy also went for a luminous lavender to convey an image of a dashing paragon of masculinity), it plays its ‘vintage barbershop’ card with such a guile-free sense of fun, it’s hard not to fall for its insistence that cinemas have only just started showing Jaws, Hawkeye is dishing out wisecracks on M.A.S.H. and everyone’s walking around in corduroy dungarees. That said, Mr Ford’s other great love is the Middle East, and sure enough, this particular Beau complicates his backward glance with cardamom and saffron - a neat counterpoint to the camphoraceous herbs - as well as a heavily patchouli-amber-laden base that instantly recalls Rive Gauche Pour Homme (which, it should be pointed out, has a superior, more suave drydown). That fragrance was, of course, from Ford’s time at YSL and was itself, even in 2003, an expression of olfactory nostalgia. So what that means is: plus ça change... for which this particular writer is most grateful.

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Tom Ford in 2018.]

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