Friday, 26 October 2018

Persolaise Mini-Reviews: August to September 2018 [part 1]

For more mini-reviews, please click here.

Aura eau de toilette from Mugler (2018)*
Plays it even safer than the edp, toning down the vine-y greenness to make more room for the pear and the vanilla. If it does create a halo, it’s aimed squarely at Insta-pouting millennials.

Nuit D’Issey Noir Argent from Issey Miyake (Dominique Ropion; 2018)*
One of the better mainstream masculines of the last year. Cinnamon, nutmeg and a leafy-green tobacco against a distant backdrop of ozonic woods. Not as complicated as its name.

L’Insoumis Ma Force from Lalique (Fabrice Pellegrin; 2018)*
Add it to the endless list of those citrus-woody-amber masculines that make a compelling case for an all-female society. La force is weak with this one.

Tiger's Nest from Memo (2018)*
Using aldehydes to evoke a subzero chill isn’t a new trick in perfumery, but because it’s so rarely pulled off, it still manages to catch your breath and bewitch you with its genius. The effect is the most notable and most memorable feature of Tiger’s Nest, in which the cool aromachemicals are coiled around an equally refrigerated incense note, as well as a suggestion of absinthe - dripped through crushed ice, of course - and, perhaps surprisingly, a traditional amber to conjure a snow-piercing summit in the most isolated reaches of the Himalayas. A cousin of No 5 and Etat Libre’s Archives 69 who has adopted Buddhism and booked the first flight to Nepal. It’s intriguing, beguiling and compelling... but in less than an hour, it’s gone. So disappointing. I realise mountain tigers vanish mere moments after they allow you a glimpse of their majesty, but I don’t think perfumers should always interpret their assignments quite so literally.

Cedar Woodpecker from Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2016)*
Ridiculous name, but easy to forgive when you realise the scent is the debonair love-child of Habit Rouge and Heritage, using citron, woody leather and, of course, cedar to convey an attitude of smiling nonchalance.

Tomboy Neroli Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2016)*
At a time when we’re sick of ‘masculine’ woody-ambers, Michel Almairac proves they do have something to offer. By keeping their dosage low & combining them with sweet citruses, he refines their edges & gives us what Sauvage et al should’ve been.

Chypre Mojo Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2018)*
After a fruit note that catches you off guard (officially: mango), this moves to a radiant, lactonic, 80s-hairdryer-advert affair, with heaps of patchouli and woods. Drydown is a touch thin and disappointing.

Orris Tattoo Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2018)*
Highly commendable attempt to present iris in an unfamiliar setting. In this case: a dry, almost macho background of classic masculine woods. The balance between the two isn’t sustained all the way, but still, an extremely interesting idea.

Woody Perfecto Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2016)*
Michel Almairac shows yet again that he’s a master at using 80s-style woods and ambers, linking them with astringent citruses and a bitter leather note. Like a well-cut Boss suit, this doesn’t surprise, but it doesn’t disappoint either.

Milky Musk Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2016)*
Yes, plenty of musks in the base (not too sweet, mercifully) but real star here is a beautiful sandalwood note, as milky, creamy & skin-hugging as you could hope for. Both fur-lined and ice-encrusted, it makes a great study in olfactory contrast.

Une Tonne De Roses Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2016)*
Maybe not a ton, but certainly, the roses that are here are suitably romantic, honeyed and verdant. The soapy-musky drydown recalls 80s rose classics.

Flavia Vanilla Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2016)*
The sour, almond-like facets of vanilla aren’t often emphasised, but Almairac exploits them to interesting effect in this musk-heavy floral. Perhaps a touch dated, but at least it’s not a bubblegum-pink airhead.


* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by the author


  1. Thanks for the lovely reviews. Orris Tattoo was instant love for me and the bottle is my first iris based perfume. I bought it mainly for the fact that it reminded me very much of the V/S for Her by Versace, the long discontinued perfume I missed.

    1. Your first iris? Wow! That's quite a commitment.

      Neva, as always, thanks so much for reading and for taking the time to comment.


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