Friday, 26 October 2018

Persolaise Mini-Reviews: August to September 2018 [part 1]


For more mini-reviews, please click here.

Aura eau de toilette from Mugler (2018)*
Plays it even safer than the edp, toning down the vine-y greenness to make more room for the pear and the vanilla. If it does create a halo, it’s aimed squarely at Insta-pouting millennials.

Nuit D’Issey Noir Argent from Issey Miyake (Dominique Ropion; 2018)*
One of the better mainstream masculines of the last year. Cinnamon, nutmeg and a leafy-green tobacco against a distant backdrop of ozonic woods. Not as complicated as its name.

L’Insoumis Ma Force from Lalique (Fabrice Pellegrin; 2018)*
Add it to the endless list of those citrus-woody-amber masculines that make a compelling case for an all-female society. La force is weak with this one.

Friday, 19 October 2018

Persolaise Review: Samsara from Guerlain (Jean-Paul Guerlain; 1989)


Does anyone else play this game? A few weeks ago, Madame Persolaise and I found ourselves in a medium-sized European airport and, as she usually does in such situations, she’d arrived unscented so that I could look around the shop and choose something for her. As most Duty Frees still don’t stock non-mainstream releases - they can’t all be like Dubai International, I suppose - I always find this an interesting little exercise in working out what I’d wear - or buy for someone else - if I didn’t have access to the wares of the independent sector, or even the ‘exclusive’ lines from the more familiar brands. As my eyes glanced over the Versaces, the Armanis and the D&G’s, I wondered if my interest in perfumery would have been as strong as it is today if I’d been brought up on a diet of current mainstream fare (ie Invictus, YSL L’Homme and Eros) rather than that of the 80s and 90s (Antaeus, Fahrenheit, CK One).

Tuesday, 16 October 2018

Scents For Millennials: Persolaise In Harper's Bazaar India

Illustration: Bonzer Muivah for Harper's Bazaar India

I'm excited to announce that the 10th anniversary issue of Harper's Bazaar India features an article by yours truly on the subject of perfumes for millennials. To read a tablet version, please search for 'Harper's Bazaar India' on your device.

Persolaise

Friday, 12 October 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent: Layers 01 from Experimental Perfume Club (Emmanuelle Moeglin; 2018)


My latest Love At First Scent video (live streamed on Facebook on 5th October 2018) is a review of the Layers 01 scents from Experimental Perfume Club: they can be purchased individually or as a set which contains an empty bottle in which you can create your own combination of them. To find out more, watch the video above, or click here to watch it on YouTube.

Persolaise 

Tuesday, 9 October 2018

A Journey In A Bottle - Persolaise In Business Traveller


I'm delighted to announce that my latest piece for Business Traveller - focussing on scents inspired by journeys and exciting destinations - has just been published. It's available in both the magazine's digital and print editions; for more details, please click here.

Persolaise

Friday, 5 October 2018

Persolaise Review: Papyrus Oud from Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2018)


It’s not often in perfumery that you’re given an opportunity to witness a scent-maker revisiting and honing a particular idea. Two examples that come to mind are Edmond Roudnitska following a train of olfactory thought through Femme, Diorella and Parfum De Therese, and Jean-Claude Ellena refining his various tea compositions. Now we have the case of Michel Almairac and his Gucci Pour Homme from 2003. A justly-adored beauty when it was released, it presented an almost heart-breaking, geometrically-impeccable balance between the fleshy delights of amber, the Sahara dryness of cedar, the facetiousness of pink pepper and the meditative wisdom of incense. Like Eau Sauvage and Habit Rouge, it was one of those conclusive, line-in-the-sand statements on masculinity, bridging the gap between the overtly macho releases of the 80s and the more emotionally literate works that followed. In their infinite wisdom, Gucci discontinued the scent, but a few years ago, Almairac returned to the same structure when asked to create Bentley For Men Absolute. The core accords were immediately recognisable, but they had been darkened by heavier woods. And in 2018, for his own Parle Moi De Parfum brand - co-created with his sons - Almairac presents Papyrus Oud: the same, perfect core, now given a very subtly Middle Eastern twist. In fact, so gentle is the oud note, I wonder if it should’ve been mentioned in the name at all, as it will no doubt lead some to expect a different sort of scent. But never mind. The master has refined one of his finest works, and we’re all the richer for it.

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Parle Moi De Parfum in 2018.]

Persolaise

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