Friday, 31 August 2018

Persolaise Review: Belgravia Chypre, Marylebone Wood & Kensington Amber from Penhaligon's (2018)


At a time when the number of annual perfume releases continues to hit the 2000+ mark, it is increasingly difficult to work out which compositions influence the aesthetics of future scents. The stats are simply too overwhelming: when you're dealing with so many individual pieces of work - and inordinate pressure to emulate the success of others - many are bound to smell very similar and several will go unsniffed and unmentioned. Therefore, trying to discern the precise - or even the vague - starting point of a penchant for a certain style is challenging, to say the least. But despite this, a few perfumes somehow manage to strike a chord so decisively that their power over everything that comes after them is almost impossible to deny. One such beast is Dominique Ropion’s Portrait Of A Lady for Frederic Malle, which finds its image reflected in the new Belgravia Chypre from Penhaligon’s, much to the vexation of many people, it would seem.

Tuesday, 28 August 2018

Next Episode Of Love At First Scent On Friday 31st August 2018


Just a few lines from me to say that as summer draws to a close and the leaves on the trees begin to take on an ambery hue, it's time to resume normal services and schedule the next episode of Love At First Scent. So, if you're free on Friday 31st August 2018 at 2:30 pm UK time (9:30 am New York time) then please do join me on the Persolaise Facebook page for the 19th episode of my series of live reviews.

Hope to see you there!

Persolaise

Friday, 24 August 2018

Persolaise Mini-Reviews: April to July 2018 [part 2]


For more mini-reviews, please click here.

Oud extrait de parfum from Maison Francis Kurkdjian (Francis Kurkdjian; 2018)*
When Kurkdjian released his first Oud in 2012, he did what many perfumers claim - but fail - to do: present a genuine bridge between east and west, or in this case, between Europe and Arabia. His composition contained the requisite animalic-medicinal growl of oud, but it also depended on the pulling-power of more occidental citruses, woods and synthetic musks. The result was one of my favourite scents of the 21st century, an olfactory homage to boundary-breaking, in the same way that The English Patient was a literary and cinematic treatise on borders and artificial territories. Now Kurkdjian has released an extrait version. It’s just as wonderful as the first and probably more timely. Do seek them both out if you haven’t already.

Invictus Aqua from Paco Rabanne (Nicolas Beaulieu, Juliette Karagueuzoglou; 2018)*
Somewhere, in a post-apocalyptic landscape, the neo-Neanderthals douse themselves with a desolate concoction of brainless citruses and even more moronic amber-woods, ie this new version of Invictus. Or as I shall call it from now on: Invidious.

Olympéa Aqua edp legere from Paco Rabanne (Loc Dong, Fanny Bal; 2018)*
As far as modern, floral-vanillic-patchouli feminines go, this one isn’t more offensive than any others. In fact, it even hints at the existence of a more sophisticated interior now and then. But it’s hard to get excited about such trend-followers.

Friday, 17 August 2018

Persolaise Review: Imitation Woman (Pierre Negrin) and Imitation Man (Leslie Girard) from Amouage (2018)


I wonder if Christopher Chong - Amouage’s unfailingly flamboyant Creative Director - wanted to call his latest scent duo Nostalgia. If he did, perhaps the more fiscally-minded forces at the brand persuaded him to move away from such a wistful word; after all, scent marketeers try to avoid sorrow as much as movie studios shy away from sad endings. Then again, ‘nostalgia’ wouldn’t have been quite the right label for these intriguing creations anyway, because although many aspects of their personalities are rooted in the past, there is an almost palpable drive in both Imitation Woman and Man to look to the future and to reject simplistic notions that everything was so much better when we were younger.

Friday, 10 August 2018

Persolaise Mini-Reviews: April to July 2018 [part 1]


For more mini-reviews, please click here.

Orage from Louis Vuitton (Jacques Cavallier; 2018)*
Fascinating beast. Its studied non-violence makes me think it should’ve been called Apres L’Orage, such is its subtle, whispered handling of citrus, magnolia, iris, patchouli & vetivert. Then a weird, damp quality emerges and you’re delightfully perplexed. 

Sur La Route from Louis Vuitton (Jacques Cavallier; 2018)*
Musky cologne very much in the style of Mugler Cologne, made more interesting by the sweet, powdery, spicy undertones in the base. An amenable travelling companion. 

Au Hasard from Louis Vuitton (Jacques Cavallier; 2018)*
With a brave - almost off-putting - dryness, this tears rose and incense straight off a busy Mumbai street and applies it to a well-textured sandalwood. Both crisp and velvety. Compelling. 

Friday, 3 August 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent: Parle Moi De Parfum Showcase


A few weeks ago, on Instagram Live, I broadcast a brief showcase of Parle Moi De Parfum, a brand founded by legendary perfumer Michel Almairac and his sons. The broadcast has now been uploaded permanently to YouTube, so if you'd like to watch it, please click here.

For more Love At First Scent videos, click here.

Persolaise

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