Monday, 28 May 2018

Persolaise In Business Traveller & Tauer Mag


I'm delighted to announce that the latest issue of Tauer Mag features an article by yours truly on the sometimes-vexing subject of vintage perfumes. It's available only in print; click here to order it from the Tauer website. You may be interested to know that this issue comes with a sample of Andy Tauer's new limited edition composition: Les Années 25.

It is with equal pleasure that I can say my writing also pops up in the June issue of Business Traveller UK. Under the spotlight in this piece: new fragrances for men. You can buy the magazine either as a print edition or a tablet version.

Persolaise 

Thursday, 24 May 2018

Cinema Scent On BBC Radio 4 Film Programme: Double Indemnity (dir. Billy Wilder; 1944)


Here we go again: same voice, same station, same idea. Only this time, something's different. At first, I couldn't figure out what it was, but then it hit me. Right between the eyes, like a Monday morning straight after a Saturday night that made you forget there was ever a Sunday. It's a different movie. An older movie. You might even call it: a darker movie. You say you wonder what I'm talking about? I wonder if you wonder...

Yes indeed, for my latest Cinema Scent segment on Francine Stock's Film Programme on Radio 4, I descended into the treacherous realms of film noir and Billy Wilder's classic Double Indemnity. To listen to the episode, please click here; as ever, I'd recommend playing it all, but if you're pressed for time, I appear at around the 24-minute mark.

To read the Cinema Scent reviews published here on Persolaise.com, click on this link.

Persolaise

Friday, 18 May 2018

Persolaise Mini-Reviews: January to March 2018 [part 1]


For more mini-reviews, please click here.

Agar Ebene from Hermès (Christine Nagel; 2018)*
One of five new entries in the Hermessence collection composed by Christine Nagel. This one takes a clean, yet very dark, sultry wood note and wraps it around the swaying hips of the velvety-suede texture we last saw in the masterful Cuir D’Ange. Arresting, subtle work and a great addition to the brand.

Cedre Sambac from Hermès (Christine Nagel; 2018)*
Astonishing contrast between the dry tangy feel of cedar and the indolic, floral sweep of jasmine. The spectacle of the two of them running side by side in perfect balance is an absolute joy to behold. 

Bohea Bohème from Mona Di Orio (Fredrik Dalman; 2016)*
Tremendous cardamom/eucalyptus opening, with sugary lavender. Like camphoraceous branches swaying along banks of a pink, crystalline river. Grows thinner and can’t help but disappoint towards the end. Well worth checking out for the first two acts.

Tuesday, 15 May 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 16 Now On YouTube


Episode 16 of Love At First Scent (broadcast live on Sunday on YouTube) is now available as a permanent upload; watch it above or by clicking here. In this edition I sniffed

Eternity Air For Men from Calvin Klein (at the start of the video)
Meteorites Le Parfum from Guerlain (at the 18:00 minute mark)
Mon Premier Cristal Hirondelles from Lalique (at the 32:00 minute mark)
Orange Mauresque from Chopard (at the 54:00 minute mark)

and my classic choice was
Diorissimo from Christian Dior (at the 39:00 minute mark)

The video has also been uploaded to my Facebook page; please click on this link to watch it there.

Persolaise

Saturday, 12 May 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 15 Now On YouTube + Episode 16 Will Be Broadcast Sunday 13th May


Episode 15 of Love At First Scent (broadcast live on Friday on Facebook) is now available on YouTube; watch it above or by clicking here. In this instalment I covered

Stash from Sarah Jessica Parker SJP (at the start of the video)
Amber Musk and others from Sugandhco (at the 17:30 minute mark)
Acqua Di Neroli from Ermenegildo Zegna (at the 32:30 minute mark)
Miel D'Arabie from Chopard (at the 57:30 minute mark)

and my classic choice was
Muscs Koublai Khan from Serge Lutens (at the 47:00 minute mark)

As per usual, the original video remains on Facebook; please click here if you'd like to see it on that platform.

Finally, in a break from the usual pattern, the next episode will be broadcast tomorrow, Sunday 13th May, at 5 pm UK time (12 pm New York time) on YouTube Live. Click here to be taken to my YouTube channel.

Persolaise

Friday, 11 May 2018

Persolaise Review: Blu Mediterraneo - Chinotto Di Liguria from Acqua Di Parma (2018)


As I write this, those of us living in the UK are going through another one of our all-too-rare bursts of a three-day summer (I expect that, as you read this, we’re back in the bowels of an Arctic winter) which means I’m currently counting the number of times people are complaining that it’s too hot, that they just can’t take these temperatures, that they’re having trouble breathing, that people in warmer countries cope only because they have air conditioning, that the garden is desperate for some rain etc etc. You get the idea. And when I permit myself to pass a comment on these endless tirades - which doesn’t happen often, because I’m not the intervening type - I pull what I hope is an annoyingly superior expression on my face, take a sip of my cafe frappé and tell them to just slow down. Take it easy. Cover yourself up with some thin, loose cotton, instead of exposing every inch of your flesh to all and sundry. Remember to breathe. Drink some cold water. And once again: slow down. Move at a more relaxed pace. Allow the heat to take your body’s rhythm down a gear or two.

Tuesday, 8 May 2018

The Moment Of Doubt: An Interview With Christine Nagel Of Hermès + The Next Episode Of Love At First Scent


Towards the end of 2017, the current in-house perfumer at Hermès, Christine Nagel - whose past credits include Eau De Cartier, Archives 69 for Etat Libre D’Orange and more than 70 scents for Jo Malone - popped into London for a Fragrance Foundation event at which she talked about her wide-ranging career. In an interview conducted by Harrods’ Annalise Fard, Nagel began by explaining how a young chemistry student from Switzerland became one of the best known perfumers in the world.

Christine Nagel: By chance! I was studying chemistry, but I stopped my studies because I had a dream to work in research. In front of the university there was a company named Firmenich. I started there in a research lab. I discovered a perfumer. And this perfumer put a perfume on the skin of the receptionist. I saw the pleasure and the emotions this gave, and I thought, ‘Okay, I want to go into perfumery.’ The first response was No. Totally no. Forbidden. Because I’m a woman. Because I don’t come from Grasse. I’m from Geneva. I don’t come from a family of perfumers. And I’ve studied chemistry. And in the past, the best background was considered to be literary studies. But I had a dream. So I found another way to become a perfumer. And this way was so special, but I have to explain something about it.

Friday, 4 May 2018

Persolaise Review: Amsterdam from Gallivant (Giorgia Navarra; 2017)


He may be better known as an incense expert, but Bertrand Duchaufour has also developed something of a specialism for conveying the scents of flowers which we don’t always associate with smells. In his Ostara for Penhaligon’s (discontinued, sadly) he gave life to the pollen-like, sappy-green personality of the daffodil. In L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Traversée Du Bosphore he married the almost dusty sweep of Istanbul’s tulips to iris and Turkish Delight. And in the recent Tender for Miller Harris, he used tulips again to reflect the darkness at the core of F Scott Fitzgerald’s writing. Having said all of that, he is not the creator of the subject of today’s review. But don’t worry: the link with Duchaufour isn’t irrelevant. Because you see, Gallivant’s Amsterdam has been put together by one of the Frenchman’s protégées, Giorgia Navarra, which probably helps explain why its handling of that most recognisable of Dutch icons - the tulip, once more - is one of its most notable features.

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