Friday, 25 November 2016

Spices, Deserts & Body Heat - Persolaise Perfume Recommendations For Winter 2016

In recent weeks, much of my time has been taken up with writing articles for other platforms, which means that I haven't had many opportunities to share my scented views with all of you here on To try to redress the balance, I've put together a list of some of the new (and new-ish) releases which have caught my attention and which would make worthy additions to your winter wardrobe. I realise I've already reviewed some of them on this blog, but never mind: they deserve the repetition!

Here's the rundown...

Galop D’Hermès from Hermès (Christine Nagel)
Christine Nagel’s take-over as in-house perfumer at Hermès achieves completion with this impeccably balanced juxtaposition of a leather note with rose. Thigh-smacking earthiness on the one hand; eyelash-fluttering coyness on the other. The stirrup-shaped bottle is attention-grabbing too.

Au Coeur Du Désert from Tauer Perfumes (Andy Tauer)
More than a decade ago, Andy Tauer released his classic amber composition, L’Air Du Desert Marocain. With the help of the blogosphere, it became the stuff of modern legend. Now he gives us this extrait-strength version, still swooning beneath the power of labdanum and vanilla, but lighter on the smoky notes. Gorgeous.

Friday, 18 November 2016

Persolaise Review: Apsu from Ulrich Lang (2016)

The soundbites
If Apsu were a colour, it would be jungle green.
If it were a texture, it would be the flesh of a honeydew melon.
If it were a sound, it would be air bubbling up through water.

The review
In objective terms, Ulrich Lang's new Apsu - named after the Babylonian proto-god of the "watery depths beneath the earth" - is certainly green. But its greenness is of a curious, perplexing character, falling neither into the figurative, 'cut grass' camp nor into the galbanum-heavy territory redolent of peas and peppers. Instead, its viridian nature is aqueous, albeit not in the ozonic, seaweedy, overly-synthetic manner that blights countless other so-called 'marine' scents. Here, the impressionistic spring bubbling across the top notes is genuinely fresh, as though it's just flowed through a travel-brochure-lake, where the reeds sway in time to the breeze and the heat never rises above 25 Celsius. Key to this effect is what I read as a banana facet (a combo of the jasmine and water lily listed on the official notes?) as well as a goosebump-inducing sprinkling of pepper, both of which bring vim and velocity to what might otherwise have been a pleasantly forgettable piece of work. Picture a tanned diver enjoying a snorkel in tropical waters and you'll get a sense of this perfume's dynamic. Confident and intriguing, Apsu adds a novel twist to the current mini-revival of 70s-style green scents. Do check it out.

[Review based on a sample of eau de toilette provided by Ulrich Lang in 2016.]


Friday, 11 November 2016

Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter: July to September 2016 [part 2]

Here's part 2 of the latest mini-review round-up. For part 1, please click here.

Missoni edt from Missoni (Quentin Bisch; 2016)*
Last year's rainbow-hued, calorie bomb of an edp made more diffusive and, astonishingly, more sugary. Diabetics beware.

Another Oud from Juliette Has A Gun (Romano Ricci; 2015)*
Well yeah, thanks for being honest. Usual, Arab-oudy mix of rough woods & thick-set musks, with fruity edge.

Gentlewoman from Juliette Has A Gun (Romano Ricci; 2015)*
Mainstream cologne, with emphasis on neroli and bergamot, perhaps to suggest femininity. Certainly gentle.

Incense Oud from Nicolaï (Patricia De Nicolaï; 2016)*
Green, artemisia-based oud of Oud Sublime, with more ecclesiastical bent. Attractive, but less memorable than Sublime.

Wednesday, 9 November 2016

Event: Frederic Malle At Selfridges London

This chap needs no introduction. Frederic Malle, the man behind one of the most influential perfume brands of the 21st century, will be making a personal appearance at the London branch of Selfridges on Thursday 17th November, from 5:30 to 6:00. For a free ticket, please send an email to If you are able to spare the time, I'd certainly recommend going along; he's a fascinating charmer.


PS For part 1 of an in-depth interview I conducted with Malle in 2013, please click here.

Saturday, 5 November 2016

Scents Of The 70s - Persolaise In The Sunday Times Style

image: Sunday Times Style

An exciting weekend for me! Tomorrow (Sunday 6th November) sees the publication of my first piece for The Sunday Times' Style magazine, in which I examine the current revival of 70s-style perfumes, as seen in the latest releases from Amouage, Tom Ford and Arquiste, amongst others. If you're based in the UK, please do buy a copy.

UPDATE: Here's a link to the online version of the article.

UPDATE: The article was shortlisted in the 'Independent - News Press' category of the 2016/17 UK Jasmine Awards.


Friday, 4 November 2016

Trends In Masculine Perfumery - Persolaise On Fashionbeans

The award-winning journalist, Lee Kynaston, has just written a piece for Fashionbeans in which he explores current trends in male perfumery. The article includes contributions from yours truly, as well as various other industry commentators. My input aside, I'd say it's well worth your time; please click here to read it.


Thursday, 3 November 2016

Ace Of Bases - Persolaise Article In The Latest Scented Letter

I'm really pleased to announce that the latest edition of The Scented Letter - The Perfume Society's multi-award winning magazine - features an article by yours truly on the subject of specialty bases used in fragrance composition. With contributions from industry veteran Frederic Malle, Guerlain's in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser and Fragrances Of The World research historian Will Inrig, the piece aims to lift the lid on a little-known corner of the perfume world... a corner that is at least partly responsible for the existence of classics like Mitsouko, No. 5 and Angel. Other writers whose work is contained in this issue - which is loosely based on the ever-controversial notion of scent as art - include Suzy Nightingale, Viola Levy, Tessa Williams, Jo Fairley and Kelly Hoppen. Only members of The Perfume Society can access The Scented Letter, so if you'd like to sign up - and enjoy a whole load of other fragrant perks - please click here.


UPDATE: The article was shortlisted in the 'Independent - Literary' category of the 2016/17 UK Jasmine Awards.


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