Friday, August 26, 2016

Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter: April to June 2016 [part 1]


Here we go, ladies and gents: another round-up of my mini-reviews from Twitter, spanning the months April to June.

La Petite Robe Noire eau de parfum intense from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser; 2016)*
Familiar sweet black cherry core is intact, made more mature with tannin-like blueberry note. Amiable.

Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser; 2016)*
As it says, a summery pear over crushed ice. Then come the musky-fruity shampoo notes. Congenial.

L'Homme Ideal eau de parfum from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser & Delphine Jelk; 2016)*
The sweet, woody almond of the edt, made more romantic with a helping of dusky rose. The best of the Ideals.

Halfeti from Penhaligon's (Christian Provenzano; 2015)*
Another entry in the faux-Arabian genre, filled with ersatz rose, oud and spices. Has few distinguishing features.

Blue from Kenneth Cole (Mathieu Nardin; 2015)*
Apple, citrus, ambery woods, freshness, transparency. In other words: another clone of Cool Water, albeit a decent one.

Icon Elite from Dunhill (2016)*
The cardamom note can't alter the fact that this is another cliched, ambery woody masculine. Plus ça change...

L'Insoumis from Lalique (Fabrice Pellegrin; 2016)*
Stunning bottle, but its fougère-wannabe contents - weak lavender, tepid spices, grating citruses - are lacklustre.

Midnight Shimmer from Michael Kors (2016)*
If you want praline & vanilla, check this out. Cascade of powdered caramel, shot through with bright greens.

Wonderlust from Michael Kors (Honorine Blanc & Aurelien Guichard; 2016)*
Undemanding, polite white florals over herbal-musky-chocolate notes. Like Modern Muse with a suggestion of Dune.

Be Tempted from DKNY (2016)*
That green apple accord sure gets around. Here it's paired with less-sweet-than-usual red berries, cellophane & hair spray.

First Instinct from Abercrombie & Fitch (Phillippe Romano; 2016)*
Crass dihydromyrcenol overdose with catatonic marine notes & woods. Watch out, here comes my gag reflex.


A selection of perfumes from Mizensir, all composed by the brand's co-founder, Alberto Morillas. As a collection, it's mostly linear, simple and top-note focused.

Eau De Gingembre (2015)*
Ginger/citrus note at the start has real bite. Soft musky drydown is much less distinctive. The sparkle fades.

Bois De Mysore (2016)*
Great link between fig and sandalwood at the top. Woods then become a touch harsh. Shades of Villoresi Sandalo.

Edition De Veronique (2015)*
Classic Morillas. Steamed musks beneath rich, rosy florals. Lots of skin hugging. A denser Kenzo Flower.

Rose Exaltante (2016)*
Stemmy, lemon-heavy rose (likely to frighten mosquitoes) with heavy nutty, woody facets. Curiously standoffish.

L'Ombre Du Lys (2015)*
Undemanding, somewhat generic white floral note, over a bucket-load of musks. No distinctive lily identity here.

L'Envers Du Paradis (2015)*
Vague intimation of cedar in the background. Otherwise, abject citrus-woody masculine, circa 1985.

Mythique Vetyver (2015)*
Sharp, piercing grapefruit at top leads to scrubbed, flat vetivert drydown. Yields no surprises along the way.

Little Bianca (2016)*
Citrus/neroli note at the beginning balances both sweet and herbal facets. Musky base is far less involving.

Original Oud (2016)*
Well, no, it isn't terribly original. But as another example of a dry, leathery oud, it ticks the right boxes.

White Neroli (2015)*
Is this Morillas reworking his own CK One & Mugler Cologne? A barrelful of musks pumping up electric sweet citruses.

Persolaise

* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by the author

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