Friday, January 29, 2016

Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter - October to December 2015 [part 2]

Here's part 2 of my latest compendium of Twitter mini-reviews. Please note that, this time around, we've got a part 3; it'll be published soon.

Shalimar Cologne from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser; 2015)* 
Legendary animalic amber, freshened up - and made more populist? - with sweet citrus notes. Attractive. Fleeting.

Foudre from Parfumerie Générale (Pierre Guillaume; 2015)*
Fascinating, more-ish blend of green-marine notes & electric, inky metallics. Compelling, sci-fi Dune. Must try!

Amber Empire from Atkinsons (Maurice Roucel; 2015)*
We don't need another amber, but when it balances dryness and sweetness as well as this one, we mustn't complain.

La Vie Est Belle from Lancôme (Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo & Olivier Polge; 2012)*
Sugar sugar sugar. Yes, I suppose there are some florals in there too, but they're drowned in sweetness. Ghastly.

La Vie Est Belle Intense from Lancôme (Dominique Ropion & Anne Flipo; 2015)*
More sugar. Probably based on the premise that if you can't eat the stuff, you should bathe in it.

Encre Noire À L'Extrême from Lalique (Nathalie Lorson; 2015)
Not exactly 'extreme'; just different. Musk-vetivert of the original is joined by incense. Fiery stuff!

Aqua Vitae Forte from Maison Francis Kurkdjian (Francis Kurkdjian; 2015)*
I thought the whole point of the original was its silence, so I confess I don't get the need for this. However, if you feel the allusive, whisper-powerful woody floral could have done with a boost, then check this out. I'm not convinced.

Black Opium eau de toilette from Yves Saint Laurent (2015)*
The horrific fruity-coffee combo is made even more moronic & depressing. Somewhere, poor Monsieur Laurent is weeping.

Donna from Valentino (Antoine Maisondieu & Sonia Constant; 2015)*
The powdery-floral accord is familiar, but the relatively restrained execution makes a welcome change. Delicate. Elegant.

Uomo from Valentino (Olivier Polge; 2015)*
My word! A mainstream masculine that DOESN'T overdose synth sandalwoods. Shades of Dior Homme in the iris-choc vibe.

Kinski from Kinski / Escentric Molecules (Geza Schoen; 2011)*
Mono-dimensional, rather shallow leathery vetivert. Nowhere near as complex or dangerous as the figure after whom it's named.

Féerie Rubis from Van Cleef & Arpels (Antoine Maisondieu; 2015)*
Familiar berry/currant cliches, but made more palatable with a dry cedar note. Seriously cute bottle!

Salomé from Papillon (Liz Moores; 2015)*
Earthy, wicked brew of every sinfully leathery material you could imagine. Too heavy on cumin, but that's the point I guess.

Tobacco Absolute from Molton Brown (2015)*
Thin, dank woodiness - with vague spice - settles on crass, overly-synthetic drydown. Zero personality.

Missoni from Missoni (Quentin Bisch; 2015)*
Yet another sugar-loaded mainstream confection, made relatively palatable with bright citruses and smooth amber base.

Jasmin-Immortelle-Neroli from L'Occitane (2015)*
Undemanding, translucent citrus-floral, with suggestion of savouriness. Very safe. Very L'Occitane.

Pamplemousse-Rhubarbe from L'Occitane (2015)*
Effective grapefruit note, whose tart smoke-sulphur aspects segue into a clean vetivert. Well-executed.

Vikt from Slumberhouse (Josh Lobb; 2009)**
Not unlike walking past a shawarma stand: meaty, spicy, heated. Bit of a morass, but worth peering into.

Mon Musc À Moi from A Lab On Fire (Dominique Ropion; 2015)**
Sugar, sugar, sugar and musks. In other words, someone's trying to do a 'niche' version of La Vie Est Belle. [NB: That 'someone' may well be Dominique Ropion; he co-authored La Vie Est Belle.]

Marrakech Intense from Aesop (Barnabé Fillion; 2014)*
The original's well-loved cardamom and clove combo just got heavier. Commendable for its avoidance of silly frills.

Dark Rebel from John Varvatos (Rodrigo Flores-Roux; 2015)*
Entry-level tobacco-leather scent, with boozy spice facets. Ideal for those who haven't tried bolder niche fare.


* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by the author

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