Friday, 20 November 2015

Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter - July to September 2015 [part 1]

It's that time again: another round-up of my Twitter mini-reviews, covering the period July to September 2015.

Ultra Male from Jean-Paul Gaultier (Francis Kurkdjian; 2015)*
An interesting, edible lavender, with pronounced caramel notes. The fougère enters gourmand territory.

Trésor L'Absolu from Lancôme (2013)**
Sweeter, denser, less dramatic than original. But still, an appealing, musky rose, heavy on vanilla.

Acqua Di Giò Profumo from Armani (Alberto Morillas; 2015)**
Cucumber freshness over heavy musk base to make it last longer. No effervescence. No sunshine. No zest.

L'Eau D'Issey Pour Homme Oceanic Expedition from Issey Miyake (Alberto Morillas; 2015)*
Invigorating, hyper-real yuzu note, followed by familiar aquatics. Citrus peel made of glass.

Quatre from Boucheron (Antoine Maisondieu, Nadège Le Garlantezec & Nathalie Gracia-Cetto; 2015)*
Yet another musky shampoo floral. We don't need any more. Did Sophia Grojsman realise what she started when she made Calyx?

Inlé from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2007)*
Compelling minty jasmine-osmanthus, reclining on a lazy Sunday morning, by a table bearing tea & fresh flowers. The brand's best.

Ilha Do Mel from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2015)*
Coconut. Jasmine. Bright greens. Grass-skirt-wearing, garland-bearing islanders greeting the sun. Well-executed. Cliched.

French Leather from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2014)*
Finely-grated black pepper sprinkled on dusty paperbacks. Hints of dried fig notes. More parchment than leather. Warm.

Kedu from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2014)*
Sweet leather beneath musky grapefruit and sesame seeds. Not much life in the top notes. Rather one-dimensional.

Sundance from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2007)*
Curious, if overly quiet, combo of pear and tuberose. A fruity witch or a naughty Snow White? Intriguing.

Siwa from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2007)*
Soft, sweet, musky shampoo notes, of the sort we've encountered countless times before. Not one of the brand's best efforts.

Jannat from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2008)*
Sparkling, optimistic lemon, which, sadly, loses verve and becomes too synthetic as it develops. Buttery floral drydown.

Granada from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2011)*
Simplistic, fruity jasmine, lacking distinct facets. Clean, undemanding and unremarkable.

Moon Fever from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2012)*
Segues from grapefruit to salty vetivert in unengaging fashion. Dull.

Irish Leather from Memo (Aliénor Massenet; 2013)*
Spices and dry iris settle on an ambery drydown. Simplistic and uninvolving.


* sample provided by brand
** sample obtained by the author


  1. Interesting that you mention Memo. I got an extra sample of their Italian Leather with a sample order that I placed. It was the first time that I heard of Memo. I was surprised to find out that there can be a scent with absolutely no citrus notes that give it the sour feel. It is based on green tomato leaf - very strange. Above you used the word "buttery" and that's what I get from it. And not much leather either.

    1. Neva, thanks for your comment. Tomato leaf is an interesting material - super green - often used in conjunction with galbanum, so perhaps that's the effect in Italian Leather.


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