Friday, 6 February 2015

Persolaise Review: Aromatics In White from Clinique (Nicolas Beaulieu; 2015)


By the pricking of my thumbs, something musky this way comes. Or should that be, "something snowy"? Two trends seem to be gaining momentum in the perfume world - i) a greater emphasis on creamy musk materials; ii) a more prominent use of pearl-coloured aesthetics in packaging - and they both find expression in the latest release from Clinique, Aromatics In White, composed by IFF's Nicolas Beaulieu.

The scent's progenitor - the masterful Aromatics Elixir (Bernard Chant; 1971) - remains one of the most explosive marriages of rose and patchouli ever poured into a bottle, which may be why Beaulieu made the wise decision not to goad it into a direct stand-off. Instead, he's decided to use violet leaf to make the rose's wings lighter, orange to sweeten its smile and the faintest sprinkling of pepper to inject a sly sparkle into its gaze. And then comes that musky base. It's extremely quiet - many will doubtless complain that this composition's volume knob is turned way too low - but it is tenacious and it settles onto the wearer's skin with the ease of tender familiarity. It's almost as though the fiery union of the 1971 creation has travelled through the relatively chaste 90s and emerged with a greater appreciation of stability and comfort.

A sleet-covered, impressionist panorama as seen through a veil of gauze, Aromatics In White is seamlessly blended, smooth and, for my money, a far more full-bodied representation of perfumery's most popular flower than Clinique's recent Beyond Rose. That said, it's not for nothing that I started this review with a reference to witches. Beaulieu's work here sounds innocuous, but it never quite lets you forget its roots. It may be clad in delicate, pearly robes, but somewhere, in its hidden recesses, it conceals a sorceress, ready to bare her soul each time you feel inclined to write her off. It is her presence that makes this subtle piece of work commendable and compelling.

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Clinique in 2015.]

Persolaise

14 comments:

  1. Intriguing review! I'm certainly enjoying this trend for creamy musks, especially Narciso Rodriguez's clever NARCISO. I will make sure to try the Clinique.

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    1. CPB, thanks for stopping by. Narciso is precisely the scent I was thinking of in relation to this release :-)

      I look forward to finding out what you make of this one.

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  2. Thanks for this lovely review!! So glad someone reviewed this beauty. Subdued in comparison to AE (what isn't? :-)), but with a lot of character. Elegant with a twist. After having sprayed it on I couldn't stop sniffing my wrist.

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    1. Labben, thanks for your comment. Yes, I'd agree that it's very more-ish!

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  3. Forgot to add: To my nose it is a distant, more discrete relative to AE AND unisex. AE is perfectly unisex in my books. :-) In White might lean more feminine though than the Perfumers Reserve version.

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    1. Labben, is In White more feminine? Yes, maybe it is, but only by current 'western' norms. The situation might be very different in other parts of the world.

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  4. Awesome review, you said everything I was hoping this scent would be! I really need to try it, thanks for sharing your impressions!

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    1. Aeris, thanks for stopping by :-)

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  5. Dear Persolaise, I have recently discovered you on YouTube and happened to binge watch all your Love at first Scent - videos as they are so informative, fair and witty! I'm here to double check if you'd approve of my new Love at first Scent which is Aromatics in White and I was contented it got a thumbs up by you too! :-) May I ask - when will your next life broadcast be - I ran out of episodes and would love to know when the next episode is scheduled - I am attempting to catch you life on the FB - broadcast. With very best wishes and thanks for all your thorough work you share with us! Stefanie (an Austrian lost in London's vast offer of perfumery - there is too much to be sniffed, so recommendations are very appreciated! :-) )

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    1. Stefanie, what a lovely message to send me, thank you. And thanks so much for watching all my episodes.

      I can't confirm the date just yet, but there's a chance the next Love At First Scent will be on Friday 27th April. This time, it may be on YouTube Live, rather than Facebook.

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    2. Hello Persolaise, many thanks for your reply - I will save the date then and hope it's going to happen this Friday, already very curious which scents you're having for us. :-) With best wishes, Stefanie

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    3. Ha, hello Persolaise, I do hope I managed to figure out how to reply to you here finally - this is my 3rd attempt and I do swear my previous two messages had been decent and appropriate (lol), but however they still didn't come through out of mysterious reasons. (Or perhaps because silly - me kept sending a new comment, instead of clicking onto the reply - button... X-D )

      However, I wanted to thank you for your reply and that I do hope that Friday the 27th will be happening for a fact and - tadaaa - now I've found the information on your blog! Unfortunately I might only be able to join the live stream briefly at 4pm, but I'm hugely looking forward to it and curious which scents you're having for us! With best wishes and "yay" for Friday, Stefanie

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    4. Stefanie,

      Oh dear, sorry, Blogger was obviously being super-sensitive with comments and threw all of yours into spam!

      But anyway, I'm so glad you were able to tune in on Friday.

      Delete
  6. Hello Persolaise, I am a little confused, as my reply to you hasn't been published (I swear, it was decent! :-D )! However, I did thank you for your reply in it(thank you again!) I do really hope, that Friday will be the day for another episode and I am very curious to see which scents are waiting for us throughout this episode! With very best wishes!

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