Thursday, 17 July 2014

Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter - April to June 2014 [part 2]

More mini-reviews from Twitter. For part 1 of this latest digest, please click here.

La Petite Robe Noire Couture from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser, 2014)*
Flanker that isn't sure what to be: sweeter or deeper? Improves once past the fakey-fruit stage. Eventually, it presents a more sophisticated take on the black cherry idea, but I'd say: Stick with the fun-loving EDP.

Rappelle-Toi from L'Artisan Parfumeur (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2014)*
A highly-diffusive, coconut-inflected gardenia. Huge honey note in the background. Terribly sweet! To my mind, it lacks the startling 3-dimensionality of Duchaufour's best work. But I must point out it won lots and LOTS of compliments.

Haute Voltige from L'Artisan Parfumeur (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2014)*
Sugared pineapple + grapefruit opening followed by a curious, animalic, barnyard drydown. I daresay the concept is 'citrus turning cartwheels in the sky' but execution isn't compelling. Too many shades of powdered fruit drink.

Onde Sensuelle from L'Artisan Parfumeur (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2014)*
Starts off interesting. Weird combo of indole & tobacco. Dentist's surgery filled with cigarette smoke. Then it turns more pedestrian - fairly ordinary smoky floral - but still the most intriguing of this year's Explosions D'Émotions trio. This is the 1 to check out, I'd say.

Le Petit Grain from Miller Harris (Lyn Harris, 2008/2014)*
Suitably metallic-citrus heart (you can taste brown twigs) leads to smooth herbal cologne. Quiet & likeable.

Harmattan from Roads (2014)*
The obligatory 'Arabian' scent. Pepper note is nicely done, but the mint + woods + synth sandalwood vibe is boring.

Graduate 1954 from Roads (2014)*
Old-school leather with large civet note - assertive and dangerous - becomes a powdery, disappointing soapiness.

Bitter End from Roads (2014)*
Translucent, gently green take on Ireland's coastline. Endearing combo of Cristalle + Calyx. Base is too shampoo-y.

Clockwork from Roads (2014)*
Striking woody opening (mainly cedar), but like others in the range, soon becomes mono-dimensional and uninvolving.

This Weekend from Roads (2014)*
Apples, cider and wood fires served with pink fruit. Shades of Coco Mademoiselle. Rather insubstantial.

White Noise from Roads (2014)*
Attempts to capture 'hum' of technology. Succeeds at first (with fuzzy florals) but descends into cheap deodorant.

Neon from Roads (2014)*
Sugar bubble lined with iridescent pinks and greens. Synthetic sweetness is oddly endearing, but it fades to dullness.

Supernova from Roads (2014)*
Well-constructed citrus opening (sharp grapefruit + lime) loses charm and leads to familiar, mock-ambery drydown.

Lights from Roads (2014)*
Orange blossom on vanilla, like L'Heure Bleue pierced by a spotlight. Curious combo of modern + old school. Attractive.

Cloud 9 from Roads (2014)*
An acid cloud of oddly powdery citruses over a generic 'clean' base. Turns bitter, cheap-smelling and pretty nasty.


* sample provided by brand
** sample obtained by the author

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