Wednesday, 16 July 2014

Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter - April to June 2014 [part 1]

Here's another 'digest' of the reviews I've posted on Twitter. To read the first instalment of this occasional series (which focussed on reviews published between January and March) please click here. And for more mini-reviews, please come back tomorrow. You can follow me on Twitter by searching for @Persolaise.

Eau D'Arômes from Armani (2014)*
Salted cucumber opening leads to the sort of 'manly freshness' you've smelt thousand times before. Disappointing.

Code Ice from Armani (Alberto Morillas, 2014)*
Thanks, Armani, for Code Ice. Now I have a perfect example of 'witless, zero-personality masculine cliches + vile, pseudo-sandalwood' scent.

Alien Eau Extraordinaire from Thierry Mugler (Dominique Ropion & Veronique Nyberg, 2014)*
PG-rated Alien. Toned down, thinned and tamed, which misses the point, surely. Stick to the original.

Angel Eau Sucrée from Thierry Mugler (Dorothée Piot, 2014)*
Yes, as advertised, raspberry & meringue are present, but subtle. This is still Angel: sweeter, fresher, lighter.

Muguet from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser, 2014)*
This year's Muguet shows how tough it is to do convincing lily of the valley now. Thin, strident and unnatural-smelling. Shame.

Eau De Lavande from Diptyque (2014)*
Curious, not entirely attractive lavender hewn out of granite. Dry rather than camphoraceous. Falters at the end.

Geranium Odorata from Diptyque (2014)*
Commendable soliflore - rosy, camphoraceous & sweet. Smattering of pepper at the top. Decent vetiver in base.

Patou Pour Homme from Jean Patou (Thomas Fontaine, 2013)*
Thomas Fontaine's reworking of the much-loved 1980 release by Jean Kerléo. Suitably green and herbal. And very, very 80s. The bitterness, the lavender and the faint sweatiness (clary sage?) all feel like the last shout of pre-CK One masculinity.

Rose Cut from Ann Gerard (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2014)*
Diffusive, sharp, woody, rhubarb-inflected rose. Touches of sweet pea and honey. Grows icier as it develops.

Marni Rose from Marni (2013)*
The gentle, translucent incense of the original has its rose facet very subtly emphasised. Cute without being daft.

Alahine from Téo Cabanel (Jean-Francois Latty, 2007/2013)*
Tangy, Knize Ten-style leather with florals straight out of 80s pencil erasers. Likeable, but probably forgettable.

Early Roses from Téo Cabanel (Jean-Francois-Latty, 2010/2013)*
Dewy, translucent rose, against a backdrop of cedar. Offers no surprises. Weak and simplistic.

Oha from Téo Cabanel (Jean-Francois Latty, 2005/2013)*
Convincing 80s-style chypre; sharp carnation + shades of Coco. Peppery, leathery, boozy and mossy. Worth checking out.

Barkhane from Téo Cabanel (Jean-Francois Latty, 2013)*
Oh look, someone else is doing an 'Arabian' perfume. Dense rose + abrasive woods over musk-wood base. Nothing new.

Julia from Téo Cabanel (Jean-Francois Latty, 2005/2013)*
Starts with cheap shampoo note, then turns into pleasant L'Heure Bleue-inspired orange blossom + jasmine. Intriguing.

Méloé from Téo Cabanel (Jean-Francois Latty, 2008/2013)*
Ozonic, strawberry-inflected melons, with a layer of citrus fizz. Less interesting than it sounds. Doesn't last.

Hégoa from Téo Cabanel (2012)*
Earl Grey with mandarin at the top and a well-executed sweet pea note. Simple, undemanding, ever so slightly dull.


* sample provided by brand
** sample obtained by the author

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