Thursday, February 28, 2013
Wednesday, February 27, 2013
I rarely paste excerpts from press releases on this blog; there are other sites that do a far better job than I ever could of keeping up with the stream of publicity material. But I thought a passage in one of the latest missives from Dior was worth sharing with you.
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
I should think the overlap between jewellery and fragrance is fascinating for perfumers to explore, and Bertrand Duchaufour certainly seems to have had a great deal of fun with the trio he's composed for Ann Gerard's scent debut. Always eager to explore his profession's past, he seems to have used Chanel's No 19 as the inspiration for Cuir De Nacre. But in order to give this impeccably white iris an intriguing twist, he's turned to one of his own creations: the metallic steam accord running through this scent's composition feels like its come straight from his Sartorial for Penhaligon's (which was, of course, an homage to a different form of fashion-world craftsmanship).
Monday, February 25, 2013
What do Bart Simpson, Georgia May Jagger and Just Cavalli's Just have in common? Click here to pop over to my latest Basenotes article and find out...
Friday, February 22, 2013
Persolaise Review: The Voice Of Reason, Flower's Barrow + Lord Of Goathorn from Gorilla Perfume (Simon & Mark Constantine; 2012)
Gorilla Perfume did last year. Instead of bringing one or two new creations to stand alongside Breath Of God, The Smell Of Freedom, Orange Blossom et al, they chose to create an entire sub-range which they've dubbed Volume 2 (and released in packaging illustrated in garish comic-book style by Steven Krakow aka Plastic Crimewave).
Thursday, February 21, 2013
I have a feeling we're going to hear Dora Arnaud's name more and more in the months to come. Her Opus VI for Amouage appeared on several bloggers' 'Best Of 2012' lists. She was selected to take part in Olfactive Studio's well-regarded 'fragrance-inspired-by-photography' project. And she was asked to compose the latest scent for L'Artisan Parfumeur - Caligna - which will form part of the brand's Grasse Collection. A full interview with her should appear here soon. But for now - just to whet your appetites - here's how the Firmenich perfumer responded to my Twenty Blotters treatment...
Tuesday, February 19, 2013
It's so wonderful to be able to approach a perfume with almost no prior knowledge of its construction, especially when it turns out to be as impressive as Cuir Velours. One whiff, and I was plunged back into the childhood aromas I associate with hugs from aunties and grandmothers: lipstick that still smelt like lipstick; chalky face powder; rose-inflected body lotion; the leather of the handbag hanging off a shoulder; the fabric of a dress that's absorbed not the synthetic musks of a washing detergent, but the welcoming odour of its wearer.
Monday, February 18, 2013
My thanks to Judith of The Unseen Censer for a great review of my book. Here's a brief extract:
It’s beautifully made and clearly, helpfully written, and very rewarding whether you want to dip into it from time to time or read it cover to cover. You wouldn’t think such a small volume would be such a useful historical resource. But it nicely fills the gap between not knowing anything (about the existence of a classic perfume house called Caron, for instance) and the pages and pages of information on the web about Carons past and present, formulations and buying opportunities.
To read the rest of the review, please click on this link.
Friday, February 15, 2013
It's not often I'm relieved to discover that a perfume is less than spectacular. I've got so many 'must buy' Amouages on my list, that the prospect of yet another one was giving me serious cause for worry in my all-too-rare moments of idleness. So, perversely, I am grateful that Beloved Man won't tempt me to part with my cash. When compared to last year's Beloved Woman - a far-reaching chypre composed by Bernard Ellena - it feels like something of a let-down. But taken on its own terms, it's a solid, competent, ambery-wood masculine.
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
The latest from Lutens and Sheldrake is a delightful exercise in wrong-footing the wearer. At first, a potential buyer is likely to notice its colour: dense, purple and almost opaque, it wouldn't look out of place inside a bottle of Ribena. Then comes the name. Granted, 'The Girl From Berlin' doesn't necessarily conjure any specific olfactory references, but I'd argue that it channels visions of Sally Bowles and pre-war decadence, which would, in turn, suggest a bold, showy scent. And then of course there's the baggage surrounding Uncle Serge himself. Rightly or wrongly, his eponymous brand has become associated with the heavier end of the perfumery spectrum - as defined by western tastes - and the sight of a fragrance that looks like it's been squeezed out of a vat of ripe berries would seem to play right into such a reputation.
Monday, February 11, 2013
The UK branch of Look Good Feel Better has teamed up with Selfridges to put together a week-long Festival Of Fragrance at the beginning of March. I'm deeply honoured to have been asked to take part in the event's opening: an evening meal interspersed with presentations from passionate scentusiasts (including Odette Toilette, Vicci Bentley, Jo Fairley and yours truly) followed by an unprecedented, out-of-hours opportunity to go shopping in the perfumery department, mingle with fellow perfume lovers and, hopefully, raise funds for this wonderful cause.
Friday, February 8, 2013
Thursday, February 7, 2013
[Review based on a sample of eau de toilette obtained in 2012.]
Tuesday, February 5, 2013
If I were to say, "Women with fish lips," I suspect many of you would know what I'm talking about. Apparently it's called the California look: botox, plastic surgery and God-knows-what-else used in hellish combination to create a face that seems to have been cross-bred with a mackerel, stretched on a rack and then brought into contact with a swarm of irate bees. Get the idea?
Sincere thanks to all of you who entered last week's draw for a sample of Chanel's brand new 1932. I genuinely enjoyed reading all your comments. However, we can have only one winner and according to Random.org, that lucky person is
Congrats! Please send your address to persolaise at gmail dot com and your prize will be on its way to you.
To everyone else: stay tuned for more give-aways in the weeks to come...
PS Don't you wish the prize had been the ring in the picture?
Friday, February 1, 2013
You won't be surprised to learn that I think my book would make an ideal present for Valentine's Day: it's pretty, it's entertaining and it might lead the scentusiast (or would-be scentusiast) in your life to all sorts of interesting scented discoveries. But today's post will go beyond mere self-promotion. To mark the time of year devoted to cupids, heart-shaped chocolates and overpriced flowers, how about a spot of geeky self-indulgence: a list of 5 of my favourite fictional couples, linked up with appropriate perfumes. Let's begin in Denmark...