Friday, 3 May 2013

Persolaise Review: Oud Mood from Maison Francis Kurkdjian (Francis Kurkdjian; 2013)

I guess it's not surprising that Francis Kurkdjian decided (or was persuaded?) to release more agar wood perfumes. His Oud was easily one of the best scents of 2012 and a genuinely original take on what has become a tiresome cliche. Sadly, his Oud Mood trio is less impressive. Silk, Velvet and Cashmere aren't cuddly - I will give them that much - but they're nowhere near as interesting as last year's release. The eponymous mood in each of them is created by a combo of an agar facet with an overdose of a strident chemical note: in Velvet it's paint, in Silk it's glass cleaner and in Cashmere it's glue. Needless to say, other elements come into play too - plums, raisins, rose, smoke, tar et al - but even though they're all strident and assertive, they ultimately fail to sustain interest. I'm sure there are still several great oud-based scents waiting to be made, but until they come along, I suppose we're going to have to keep putting up with this sort of highly-competent-yet-forgettable stuff.

[Review based on samples of extrait de parfum provided by Maison Francis Kurkdjian in 2013.]



  1. Thank you for telling it as you smell it. There has been an awful lot of heavy breathing over these releases on the net. Who knows, once I've smelled them, I may well have a wildly different opinion of them to yours.
    Would love to have your take on the Ex Idolo offering which I hope you get to sample soon.

    1. Gimmegreen, you're absolutely right: each to their own. I just found these quite uninspiring.


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