There’s at least one person in the world who thinks Kokorico is a work of genius. A couple of weeks ago, when I picked up the scent’s tester at a branch of Sephora in northern France, a fellow shopper rushed up to me, undid the top buttons of her blouse and invited my nose to get friendly with her cleavage. (All in a day’s work for an intrepid perfume critic.) “Smell it on me,” she said. “it’s magnificent. An incredible creation.” I thanked her for her generosity and proceeded to obey her instructions.
I’ve now had a chance to spray the juice on my own chest several times, and whilst I can’t say I share the lady’s ecstasy, I do consider it one of this year's more impressive mainstream releases, particularly as far as masculines are concerned. What’s especially fascinating is the tension it displays between the safer, more predictable aesthetic of the brand’s money-maker, Le Male, and the savagely underrated Fleur Du Male. Kokorico attempts to straddle both worlds: on the one hand, it’s an appetising woody gourmand (taking the minty top of Guerlain Homme, the tonka/cocoa heart of B*Men and the deep vanilla base of Tocade) but on the other, it doesn’t quite have the guts to eschew a yawn-inducing dose of Iso E Super and dihydromyrcenol (aka Generic Man Smell). The result is never unattractive – its polished warmth will doubtless work well as autumn tightens its grip – but it will probably disappoint those hoping for a more outré composition.
Mind you, even the most demanding of wearers will ignore many of the scent’s shortcomings each time they catch sight of the bottle. At first glance, it appears to be little more than a profile of Monsieur Gaultier’s face. But view it side-on and you notice that it also depicts the familiar male torso from the Male bottles. It’s a quirky, wonderful little bit of design which suggests that, somewhere in its development process, this had been envisaged as a much more striking perfume. The name, the flacon and the ad campaign point at a wearer who sees himself as something of a preening cockerel. The scent is much more straight-laced, but it does have the potential to serve as a stepping stone towards more unconventional fragrance choices... so if its mission is to out a few closet cockerels, then I'm happy to give it a thumbs up.
[Review based on a sample of eau de toilette obtained in 2011; fragrance tested on skin.]
Please don't forget that you have until Tuesday night (UK time) to win a sample of Miriam, Andy Tauer's first composition for the Tableau De Parfums line. And below you'll find a short YouTube clip depicting the creation of the Kokorico bottle.
Have a great weekend,