Monday, October 4, 2010

Tauer Perfumes Draw + Review: Eau d'Épices by Tauer Perfumes (2010)

Some truths are worth repeating: excellent fragrances feature a delicate harmony of all their disparate components. Few contemporary perfumers are as acutely aware of this as Andy Tauer, creator of the new Eau d'Épices, which, like its predecessors, displays his ability to assemble remarkably intricate structures. His latest balancing act begins with the eponymous spices. Cardamom, cumin, pepper, cinnamon and goodness knows what else fly into the air, as if leaping out of a basket that's just been thrown at the sun. They descend onto a landscape that's part terracotta, part summer orchard, where the pungency of orange blossom competes with the resinous waft of incense. There's a hint of dryness in the air, a sense of crackling heat. And then things become really impressive. Three different forces engage in a tug-of-war - ambery wood, frankincense and indolic floral - but instead of cancelling each other out, they all manage to make their presence felt with clarity and insane longevity. Those of us who've played around with pipettes and essential oils will appreciate that this feat is nothing short of astonishing.

Whether or not you'll actually like it is another matter. I'd be lying if I said I fell in love with it straight away. There's a particular note hovering around the floral section - a vaguely synthetic, green citrus - that I found difficult to ignore, although it's much less pronounced on paper than on skin. By no means did it spoil the entire experience, but it did distract from the other, more pleasurable elements. Having said that, the fragrance yielded several compliments from those caught in its sillage, with comments ranging from, "It smells like amazingly fresh air," to "It smells like walking into a warm house on a freezing cold day." In other words - and I'm sure you don't need me to tell you this - sniff before you buy! Personally, I haven't yet been able to shower Eau D'Épices with total adoration, but there is no doubt that it's a worthy addition to the Tauer line and that it commands all my respect.

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum obtained in 2010; fragrance tested on skin; for reviews of the rest of the Tauer Perfumes range, please click here, here and here.]

[UPDATE 12th October 2010: At a recent event, I had an opportunity to try Eau D'Épices on my skin once more, and although I'd worn it several times before writing the review above, I was struck by how it smelled this time around. It was unquestionably different, albeit in a subtle way: the aforementioned synthetic note - which has variously been referred to as chewing gum and liniment by others - was much more finely tuned. Indeed, it blended into the whole with such ease that I didn't find it the least bit bothersome. Now, there could be a few reasons for this. My first sample may have been slightly dodgy, but that's highly unlikely. It's also possible that I may have grown more tolerant of the troublesome accord. Our personal olfactory autobiographies do have a massive influence on how we respond to smells, and sometimes a process of repeated exposure is required to curb the ill effects of a chemical to which we're sensitive. But I prefer to think that the reason for the apparent transformation was that the scent was sprayed by the fingers of Andy Tauer himself. He probably worked some secret Swiss magic. Whatever the explanation, this curious little development just reinforces my point that Eau d'Épices is a fragrance you really ought to try for - and on! - yourself.]
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I am thrilled to announce that Andy Tauer has agreed to send one lucky reader of this blog a bottle of either Une Rose Vermeille or Eau d'Épices. The recipient of the prize will be selected by a random draw. If you'd like to enter, please leave a comment which begins with the following words: "I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called..." Comments must be left on this post.

Please note: i) the draw will be open until 10pm (UK time) on Sunday 10th October; ii) the winner will be selected at random and announced on this blog; iii) readers from anywhere in the world are eligible to enter; iv) by entering the draw, you indicate that customs regulations in your country permit you to receive an alcohol-based perfume; v) the winner will have to provide his/her postal address, which will then be passed on to Andy Tauer; vi) the winner's address will not be kept on record by Persolaise, nor will it be passed to any third parties, apart from Andy Tauer.

Good luck!

Persolaise.

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The draw is now closed. Please click here to find out who won.

60 comments:

  1. Lovely review. I'm wearing it now, and I can't pick out any of the individual spices, but it's warm and juicy and dry all at the same time.

    I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called...Midnight in the Garden.

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  2. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called Tubereuse Extreme. :)

    I'm wearing Eau d'Epices today. Like you I didn't fall in instant love with it (orange is not my favorite note), but I am enjoying it. It's a very unusual treatment of spices, almost savory.

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  3. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called Incense & Craft

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  4. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called...Mon (or Ma) Grand Corbeau ...

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  5. I will have to try Eau d´Épices, sounds so different.

    I contacted Guerlain. Awaiting their reply.

    Oh, I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called Absolute Love

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  6. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called 'Eric Rohmer' as his perfumes always remind me of his films. Lonestar Memories reminds me of 'A Tale of Autumn.'

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  7. Kjanicki, Midnight In The Garden sounds like a real Tauer.

    You're in the draw.

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  8. Elisa, your name's been added to the draw too.

    Tuberose is a great idea; I'm sure Andy would turn it into something seriously intoxicating.

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  9. Liam J, you're in the draw. Incense & Craft is certainly an attention-grabbing name.

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  10. Vintage Lady, I suppose in a way, all of Andy's fragrances could be called Absolute Love, but yes, I could see him creating something very sensuous to go with that name.

    You're in the draw.

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  11. Liz, I confess I had to look up the meaning of corbeau. An unusual choice, but I could see it being translated into a powerful, mysterious scent.

    Your name's been added to the draw.

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  12. Jason, yours is certainly a different idea. I'm a film buff myself, but I can't say I've ever detected a cinematic streak in Andy's work. 'Eric Rohmer' would be a suitably idiosyncratic name, though.

    You're in the draw too.

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  13. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called Obsédante Bas.

    -scent @ Basenotes

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  14. I have a small sample of Eau d'Epices awaiting test (Thanks, Elisa!). Really enjoyed URV, though I'm still not sure that gourmands are "me."

    I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called Une Rose Miroitante d'Or.

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  15. I'd love to get one of these two new Andy's frags.

    I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called "le ciel l'encens "

    thanks

    robertocrisanto@yahoo.com

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  16. I would love for Andy to create a perfume called "Nostalghia" (another movie fan here!)

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  17. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called "angelique vetiver" ... like Angelique Sous la Pluie, but with Andy's great take on vetiver!

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  18. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called Lust For Life.

    I haven't tried either of these new ones yet, so am very keen! Thanks Persolaise.

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  19. Thanks for the review.

    "I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called..."

    STAR ANISE OF CHINA

    rosehavn@basenotes.net

    ReplyDelete
  20. Museinwoodensoes, thanks very much indeed. Another evocative name.

    You're on the list too.

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  21. Scent, dare I ask for a translation?

    You're in the draw.

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  22. Roberto, that sounds like classic Tauer territory.

    You're in the draw.

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  23. Frida, you're definitely in the draw too. I'm curious: what would you put in a scent called Nostalgia?

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  24. Hi Michael. Hmm... what would the main components of this lust be, I wonder.

    You're in the draw.

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  25. John, that is one scent I'd want to smell too.

    Your name's on the list.

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  26. Rosehavn, now what makes you think Andy might be interested in spicy orientals ;-)

    You're in the draw.

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  27. I'm sorry I couldn't elaborate some more because I was attending a lecture! I was so excited I had to enter the draw asap! Lol
    It translates to "haunting whisper" and I would like Andy to make it as an eery incense with a watery almost stale rose note that appears every now and then making the wearer longing for the note but alas getting it in minute puffs. A guy can dream, can't he!
    Thanks for entering me in the draw!
    Scent @ basenotes

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  28. I'm not entirely sure about lust, but perhaps (and I'm not saying this would actually work in a scent!) I'd include civet, jasmine, rose, labdanum and a dirrrty musk!

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  29. Pers, if I created it, it would smell like the ground after the snow melts and rose, the scent of a candle being snuffed out, and an old musty bedroom, with some woodsy kinda thing there.

    That's kinda based on the movie and my own nostalgia! ;)

    But I'm not sure how Andy would interpret it.

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  30. Michael, that sounds good too. I wonder if Andy's reading this...

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  31. Scent, that sounds wonderful. Thanks for elaborating.

    I should point out that reading blogs whilst engaged in educational activities may be hazardous to your health.

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  32. Hi again Frida. The ground after snow melts? What an evocative image. We should probably start charging for all these concepts.

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  33. I love incense and I love Andy Tauer work, so in this case i'd like Andy to create a perfume called "encens embrasser".
    Thanks!

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  34. I'd like Andy to creat a perfume called

    l'avenir de l'oud

    I'd be intersting to see andy work with oud.

    Please enter my name in the draw.

    Sonia

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  35. D3m0lici0n, that's a name with classic Tauer potential.

    You're in the draw.

    ReplyDelete
  36. Soniagarcia, I seem to remember he mentioned something about the possibility of working with oud a few years ago on his blog.

    You're in the draw too.

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  37. This is really cool! I've been trying to get these two new tauers with no lck so far, I hope I can get it this time. My favorite note is vetiver and I'd like Andy to create a perfume called

    vents vétiver (vetiver winds)

    He should give vetiver another try...

    Thanks and please enter my name in the draw!

    honeywhereismygun@hotmail.com

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  38. I'm a bit late to this so I skipped all the comments in order not to gather ideas (I hope this didn't appear anywhere up there).

    I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called Sérénité des Fleurs.

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  39. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called...Coeur la Belle.

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  40. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called Odeur Générique.
    Of course it would be far from generic ;)

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  41. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called Feuilles D'Automne.

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  42. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called "Seasons of the Cyclamen". For some reason, I always thought of that as the title of the novel I'm never gonna write. It's not that I'm a big fan of cyclamens (in fact, if I had to pick one flower it would be iris, not cyclamen). And I only know their watery smell from PG's weirdly beautiful "Psychotrope". But I remember them, strange-looking flowers, with heads bowed down and petals sticking up, growing at the dark woody edges of my first school from mossy stone crevices. It had the damp cold smell of leaving home and being on one's scary own for the very first time...

    PS: I LOVE Bloody Frida's name and concept above! That's a perfume I might even break the rule and buy without smelling first, especially coming from Andy Tauer!

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  43. Hi Ines, your suggestion sounds like it has the potential to be another classic Tauer composition.

    You're in the draw.

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  44. YouSmell, I too hope that Andy revisits vetivert one day.

    Your name's been added to the list.

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  45. Sharon, thanks for your suggestion.

    You're in the draw.

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  46. Nick, that's a pretty clever idea, especially considering Andy's dislike of generic perfumery.

    You're in the draw.

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  47. Emmasyrup, your idea certainly ties in with the time of year.

    You're in the draw too.

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  48. Arch.Memory, I think you need to go ahead and write that novel!

    Your name's been added to the draw list.

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  49. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called...Serenity.

    Because it's a rare state for me. But I'm sure Andy could make a perfume which could induce the feeling - at least temporarily.... ;-)

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  50. Not sure if I made it before the cut... but I would love Andy to create an Iris... or Anise something because he can and hasn't yet!

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  51. Tania, I can just imagine a Tauer with that name.

    You're in the draw.

    ReplyDelete
  52. Womo531, you're definitely not too late yet; your name's been added to the list. Andy did create a limited edition iris scent a few years ago, but I like the sound of your anise idea.

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  53. Hi P.!
    My idea:
    Name: Sensual alchemy
    - I see it as warm, goldy scent, made of woods are resoins with slight touch of soft and smooth flower, without spice and fruits... just a cozy, special and tender.
    Ideal for upcoming winter.

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  54. Just back from a business, hopefully still able to participate.

    I love vetiver dance and l'air.

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  55. Bellatrix, that sounds good too. So many tantalising names!

    You're in the draw.

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  56. Christof, the idea of this particular game was that you had to come up with a name for an imaginary Tauer fragrance... but seeing as you've just got home from a trip, I'll let you off.

    You're in the draw.

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  57. I would like Andy Tauer to create a perfume called 'Winterdeep' - to evoke the contrasting scents of winter including the heady scents of winter flowers.

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  58. Chrisb, you've just got in by the skin of your teeth! Winterdeep sounds wonderful, by the way.

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  59. THE DRAW IS NOW CLOSED.

    Thanks to everyone who entered.

    The winner will be announced within the next few days.

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  60. Thanks so much Persolaise - what fun this has been to read everyone's ideas!! (thanks too to Arch for the compliments - I really like your idea too!)

    ReplyDelete

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