Friday, 14 December 2018

Persolaise Mini-Reviews: August to September 2018 [part 2]


For more mini-reviews, please click here.

Mr Burberry Indigo from Burberry (Francis Kurkdjian; 2018)*
When you’ve spent 10 days crawling through a desert, even the muddiest water is refreshing. Enter: Mr Burberry Indigo - a modest oasis in an endless Sahara of masculine perfumery. Understated, cucumber-saline opening. The minty-lime-leafy air of Fahrenheit 32. A (relatively!) well-judged base of ambery woods and mosses. Nothing we haven’t seen before. But asking for originality in mainstream scent creation for men feels like utter lunacy at the moment, when you can rarely even find pleasantness. Drink the water wherever you find it.

Luna Rossa Black from Prada (Daniela Andrier; 2018)*
When you’re a person of the male persuasion and you don’t have access to a wide range of fragrance releases - or your budget is a touch on the restrictive side - you take your scented blessings where you can find them. Cue: the new Black version of Prada Luna Rossa. Let me be clear: this is yet another variant of the citrus-woody-amber theme that has become more ubiquitous than pouts in selfies and threatens to plunge the whole of masculine perfumery into the corner of hell reserved for those tree-shaped air fresheners so beloved by car wash companies. That said, it tries to inject some vitality into the genre in the form of a liquorice note - perhaps achieved by a combo of angelica and tonka bean - which lends proceedings a suitably saturnine air of darkness. It’s an idea reminiscent of the now discontinued Kokorico from Jean-Paul Gaultier (2011), a scent whose influence I’ve detected in a few recent releases, as it happens. I daren’t allow myself to see this as a sign that brands have finally decided to shake things up a little on the boys’ side of the shop floor. But we live in hope.

Eau De Givenchy from Givenchy (Francois Demachy; 2018)*
The kind of optimistic, orange-blossom-and-neroli cologne that makes you think maybe global warming isn’t such a terrible thing. Endless summer everywhere and people easing themselves into permanent smiles. Lovely work.

Friday, 7 December 2018

The Complete Persolaise Perfume Gift Guide - Christmas 2018


While putting together my 2018 list of Christmas perfume gift recommendations, I discovered that Storify is no longer with us, which is a bit of a shame, because several of my previous lists had been stored there. So, to try to prevent the ill effects of any social media disappearances, this year’s selection is going to be presented as an old-fashioned blog post - a compilation of tweets bearing the #PersolaiseXmas18 tag - complete with links for more info on the various goodies that ought to find their way under your trees.

Enjoy finding out what they are... and happy shopping!

Monday, 3 December 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 23 Now On YouTube - 190 Years Of Guerlain - Anniversary Special


On Friday 30th November, I broadcast the 23rd episode of Love At First Scent: a special instalment celebrating the 190th anniversary of Guerlain. It's now available on YouTube and you can watch it above or by clicking here. If you'd like to see the original FacebookLive version - with comments from viewers - please click here. In this episode I covered:

Vol de Nuit extrait (at the start of the video)
Vol de Nuit Evasion (at the 26:00 minute mark)
Shalimar Eau Legere (at the 38:00 minute mark)
Iris Ganache (at the 55:00 minute mark)
Habit Rouge edt (at the 1:00:00 minute mark)
and a very special version of Apres L’Ondee extrait
(at the 1:12:00 minute mark)

Enjoy!

Persolaise

Wednesday, 28 November 2018

Next Episode Of Love At First Scent: Guerlain Anniversary Special - 190 Years


The next episode of Love At First Scent will be broadcast on Facebook Live this Friday 30th November at 3 pm UK time (10 am New York; 7 pm Dubai). I do hope you'll be able to tune in as it's going to be a special instalment celebrating the 190th anniversary of Guerlain.

Persolaise

Friday, 23 November 2018

Persolaise Review: Perfumes The Guide 2018 by Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez (Perfüümista ÖÜ; 2018)



When you pick up a new book by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez and you discover that a review of a gardenia perfume begins with that familiar refrain of ‘Not gardenia’, you find yourself heaving a mightily stress-banishing sigh of relief, because you realise that, no matter how insane the world around you may seem, at least a few things can be relied upon to remain the same. In this case: the quality and honesty of Turin and Sanchez’s fragrance assessments. Those attributes come to the fore in Perfumes The Guide 2018, their most far-reaching release since their rightly lauded and influential guide from 2009.

Friday, 16 November 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 22 Now On YouTube - Featuring The Dawn from Frederic Malle and In The Wood For Love from Roos & Roos


The 22nd episode of Love At First Scent - streamed on Friday 2nd November 2018 on Facebook Live - is now available on YouTube; you can watch it above or by clicking here. Unfortunately, the broadcast was plagued by some kind of technical issue which has resulted in the image quality not being High Def and veering from acceptable to poor on several occasions. (Thankfully, the audio is fine.) I can only apologise, but I won't delete the episode, on the premise that you'd rather have low-quality visuals than none at all. Better luck next time. Anyway, in this edition I covered:

The Dawn 'الفجر'  from Editions De Parfums Frederic Malle
(at the start of the video)
Tommy Now from Tommy Hilfiger (at the 28:30 minute mark)
In The Wood For Love from Roos & Roos (at the 42:00 minute mark)
Spiceair from Hermetica (at the 1:09:30 minute mark)

and the classic scent was

Nu from Yves Saint Laurent (at the 57:00 minute mark)

Enjoy!

Persolaise


Friday, 9 November 2018

Persolaise Review: Mandarine Glaciale from Atelier Cologne (Jerome Epinette; 2015)


I continue to view the output of Atelier Cologne with both interest and suspicion. They insist that their ‘cologne absolues’ are fresh compositions that manage to pull off the fiendish trick of lasting longer than traditional colognes. But the truth is that many of their scents tick the longevity box because they eschew lightness and rely on hard-hitting ingredients to achieve tenacity... which essentially means they end up being like any other eau de parfum. However, sometimes the concept and the execution come together to produce a praiseworthy result, as in the case of Jerome Epinette's Mandarine Glaciale. We’re used to the idea of aldehydes lending a sense of cool, detached elegance to florals and resins (you may have heard of a perfume called No. 5) but I can’t think of many instances where their influence is used on citruses. Here, the faintly saline, flint-like quality of mandarin is attached with great skill to the deep-chill hauteur of candle-wax aldehydes, which, when they segue into the pine-and-incense heart, create a compelling image of a flash of colour placed in an unexpected context, like a flamingo against a snow-covered peak in Switzerland. It’s a startling picture and yes, as the brand would have us believe, it lasts. An enjoyable piece of work which reminds you that although we love lemons and oranges for how they conjure impressions of Mediterranean balminess, there’s also nothing quite like the tingling pleasure of running your tongue across a deep-frozen citrus sorbet. 

[Review based on a sample of cologne absolue provided by Atelier Cologne in 2018.]

Persolaise

Wednesday, 7 November 2018

What Goes Around... - Persolaise In Business Traveller


In my latest piece for Business Traveller UK, I've turned my attention to the recent crop of retro-inflected masculines for men, so if you'd like to read it, please search for a digital edition on your tablet. (Here's a link to the iPad/iTunes edition.)

Also, please don't forget that at around 1:00 pm UK time on Thursday 8th November, I'll be joining the team at Feelunique for a perfume Q&A on their Instagram channel. Hope you can tune in!

Persolaise

Monday, 5 November 2018

Persolaise On Feelunique Instagram Live This Thursday


For my next live video stream, I'm going to be joining the wonderful people at Feelunique and broadcasting a perfume Q&A session through their Instagram channel, so please do try to join me. The stream will begin at around 1:00 pm (UK time) on Thursday 8th November.

Persolaise

Friday, 2 November 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 21 Now On YouTube


Episode 21 of Love At First Scent - streamed on Sunday 28th October 2018 on Facebook Live - has just been uploaded to YouTube; you can watch it above or by clicking here. In this edition I covered

The One Mysterious Night from Dolce & Gabbana (at the start of the video)
Pure XS edp from Paco Rabanne (at the 14:00 minute mark)
Erawan from Dusita (at the 28:00 minute mark)
Her from Burberry (at the 45:00 minute mark)

and the classic scent was

Encre Noire from Lalique (at the 37:00 minute mark)

Persolaise

Friday, 26 October 2018

Persolaise Mini-Reviews: August to September 2018 [part 1]


For more mini-reviews, please click here.

Aura eau de toilette from Mugler (2018)*
Plays it even safer than the edp, toning down the vine-y greenness to make more room for the pear and the vanilla. If it does create a halo, it’s aimed squarely at Insta-pouting millennials.

Nuit D’Issey Noir Argent from Issey Miyake (Dominique Ropion; 2018)*
One of the better mainstream masculines of the last year. Cinnamon, nutmeg and a leafy-green tobacco against a distant backdrop of ozonic woods. Not as complicated as its name.

L’Insoumis Ma Force from Lalique (Fabrice Pellegrin; 2018)*
Add it to the endless list of those citrus-woody-amber masculines that make a compelling case for an all-female society. La force is weak with this one.

Friday, 19 October 2018

Persolaise Review: Samsara from Guerlain (Jean-Paul Guerlain; 1989)


Does anyone else play this game? A few weeks ago, Madame Persolaise and I found ourselves in a medium-sized European airport and, as she usually does in such situations, she’d arrived unscented so that I could look around the shop and choose something for her. As most Duty Frees still don’t stock non-mainstream releases - they can’t all be like Dubai International, I suppose - I always find this an interesting little exercise in working out what I’d wear - or buy for someone else - if I didn’t have access to the wares of the independent sector, or even the ‘exclusive’ lines from the more familiar brands. As my eyes glanced over the Versaces, the Armanis and the D&G’s, I wondered if my interest in perfumery would have been as strong as it is today if I’d been brought up on a diet of current mainstream fare (ie Invictus, YSL L’Homme and Eros) rather than that of the 80s and 90s (Antaeus, Fahrenheit, CK One).

Tuesday, 16 October 2018

Scents For Millennials: Persolaise In Harper's Bazaar India

Illustration: Bonzer Muivah for Harper's Bazaar India

I'm excited to announce that the 10th anniversary issue of Harper's Bazaar India features an article by yours truly on the subject of perfumes for millennials. To read a tablet version, please search for 'Harper's Bazaar India' on your device.

Persolaise

Friday, 12 October 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent: Layers 01 from Experimental Perfume Club (Emmanuelle Moeglin; 2018)


My latest Love At First Scent video (live streamed on Facebook on 5th October 2018) is a review of the Layers 01 scents from Experimental Perfume Club: they can be purchased individually or as a set which contains an empty bottle in which you can create your own combination of them. To find out more, watch the video above, or click here to watch it on YouTube.

Persolaise 

Tuesday, 9 October 2018

A Journey In A Bottle - Persolaise In Business Traveller


I'm delighted to announce that my latest piece for Business Traveller - focussing on scents inspired by journeys and exciting destinations - has just been published. It's available in both the magazine's digital and print editions; for more details, please click here.

Persolaise

Friday, 5 October 2018

Persolaise Review: Papyrus Oud from Parle Moi De Parfum (Michel Almairac; 2018)


It’s not often in perfumery that you’re given an opportunity to witness a scent-maker revisiting and honing a particular idea. Two examples that come to mind are Edmond Roudnitska following a train of olfactory thought through Femme, Diorella and Parfum De Therese, and Jean-Claude Ellena refining his various tea compositions. Now we have the case of Michel Almairac and his Gucci Pour Homme from 2003. A justly-adored beauty when it was released, it presented an almost heart-breaking, geometrically-impeccable balance between the fleshy delights of amber, the Sahara dryness of cedar, the facetiousness of pink pepper and the meditative wisdom of incense. Like Eau Sauvage and Habit Rouge, it was one of those conclusive, line-in-the-sand statements on masculinity, bridging the gap between the overtly macho releases of the 80s and the more emotionally literate works that followed. In their infinite wisdom, Gucci discontinued the scent, but a few years ago, Almairac returned to the same structure when asked to create Bentley For Men Absolute. The core accords were immediately recognisable, but they had been darkened by heavier woods. And in 2018, for his own Parle Moi De Parfum brand - co-created with his sons - Almairac presents Papyrus Oud: the same, perfect core, now given a very subtly Middle Eastern twist. In fact, so gentle is the oud note, I wonder if it should’ve been mentioned in the name at all, as it will no doubt lead some to expect a different sort of scent. But never mind. The master has refined one of his finest works, and we’re all the richer for it.

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Parle Moi De Parfum in 2018.]

Persolaise

Friday, 28 September 2018

Persolaise Review: The Tycoon, The Stylist, The Actress, The Writer & The Mechanic from St Giles (Bertrand Duchaufour; 2017)


Ascribing a personality to a perfume has long been a trick used by the likes of yours truly to get past the challenge of conveying olfactory sensations in words. No 5 is the impeccable, pouting, Gallic femme. Nahema is the tempestuous princess. Angel is the less-ditzy-than-she-makes-out twentysomething. So when a new brand turns the game into its modus operandi, you can’t help but see the move as a cheeky invitation to test its premise. Do its fragrances really match up to the characters on their packaging?

Friday, 21 September 2018

Persolaise Love At First Scent Episode 20 Now On YouTube


Episode 20 of Love At First Scent - streamed on Friday 7th September 2018 on Facebook Live - is now available on YouTube; watch it above or by clicking here. In this edition I covered

Musc Noble from Guerlain (at the start of the video)
Le Participe Passé from Serge Lutens (at the 14:00 minute mark)
Terre D’Hermès Eau Intense Vetiver from Hermès (at the 25:00 minute mark)
Trente-Quatre Boulevard Saint Germain edp from Diptyque (at the 54:00 minute mark)

there was also a mention of
Papyrus Oud from Parle Moi De Parfum (at the 52:00 minute mark)

and the classic scent was
Miss Dior from Christian Dior (at the 39:00 minute mark)

Persolaise

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