Tuesday, 14 August 2018
Persolaise Love At First Scent: Les Eaux De Chanel - Paris-Biarritz, Paris-Deauville & Paris-Venise from Chanel (Olivier Polge; 2018)
Friday, 10 August 2018
For more mini-reviews, please click here.
Fascinating beast. Its studied non-violence makes me think it should’ve been called Apres L’Orage, such is its subtle, whispered handling of citrus, magnolia, iris, patchouli & vetivert. Then a weird, damp quality emerges and you’re delightfully perplexed.
Sur La Route from Louis Vuitton (Jacques Cavallier; 2018)*
Musky cologne very much in the style of Mugler Cologne, made more interesting by the sweet, powdery, spicy undertones in the base. An amenable travelling companion.
Au Hasard from Louis Vuitton (Jacques Cavallier; 2018)*
With a brave - almost off-putting - dryness, this tears rose and incense straight off a busy Mumbai street and applies it to a well-textured sandalwood. Both crisp and velvety. Compelling.
Friday, 3 August 2018
A few weeks ago, on Instagram Live, I broadcast a brief showcase of Parle Moi De Parfum, a brand founded by legendary perfumer Michel Almairac and his sons. The broadcast has now been uploaded permanently to YouTube, so if you'd like to watch it, please click here.
For more Love At First Scent videos, click here.
Friday, 27 July 2018
A re-brand is often a cause for concern, but thank goodness that when the Powers That Be at Annick Goutal decided they needed a facelift - different bottles; the ‘Annick’ has been dropped - they evidently thought that the updated look would have to be accompanied by an attention-worthy new scent. It comes in the form of a flanker of sorts to one of their best-known creations, Eau D’Hadrien from 1981. Like its predecessor, Camille Goutal's Bois D’Hadrien is a joyous citrus composition, but whereas the original fizzed with vibrant, lemony energy, this one opts for a greener, leafier, lime-and-verbena effect. As a result, it comes across as the ‘lazy sunset’ counterpart to Eau’s early-morning vitality, and it plays the role well, easing onto the wearer like a sage, silk blouse donned before an evening of relaxed cocktail consumption. There’s a faint suggestion of vanillic orientalism in there too - a nod to Habit Rouge? - and, as the name suggests, a reliance on pebble-smooth woods to boost the citruses and lend weight to the lung-filling pine note. Perhaps it doesn’t last as long as some would like it to, but then neither do holidays. And this olfactory postcard from a sun-filled destination is all the more commendable for its insistence on bidding you farewell long before you’ve grown tired of its presence.
[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Goutal in 2018.]
Friday, 20 July 2018
Episode 18 of Love At First Scent (broadcast live on YouTube) is now available as a permanent upload, complete with incorrect orientation, thanks to the ol' Tube letting me down; watch it above or by clicking here. In this edition I covered
Hidden On The Rooftops from Miller Harris (at the start of the video)
Grande Bellezza from Folie A Plusieurs (at the 15:00 minute mark)
Stigmato from Folie A Plusieurs (at the 50:30 minute mark)
and my classic choice was
Tuesday, 17 July 2018
Episode 17 of Love At First Scent (broadcast live on Facebook) is now available as a permanent upload on YouTube; watch it above or by clicking here. In this edition I sniffed
Mystic Aromatic from Mugler (at the start of the video)
and my classic choice was
Friday, 13 July 2018
Persolaise Review: Les Eaux De Chanel - Paris-Biarritz, Paris-Deauville & Paris-Venise from Chanel (Olivier Polge; 2018)
Wednesday, 11 July 2018
Time to dig out your annotated T S Eliot and stick on a bit of Wagner, because my latest contribution to BBC Radio 4's Film Programme, presented by Francine Stock, sinks deep into the murky interior of Francis Ford Coppola's Apocalypse Now. Can you take the horror...?
The episode will be broadcast on Thursday 12th July at 4 pm UK time; you can listen live by clicking on this link. I'll post a link to the podcast version after the live broadcast.
UPDATE: Here's a link to some podcast and download options; scroll through to the 25 minute mark for my contribution.
For more Cinema Scent reviews, please click here.
Friday, 6 July 2018
For the latest single-perfume instalment of Love At First Scent (which was actually streamed on Instagram before the one I first mentioned here on Persolaise.com) the focus is on Eau De Citron Noir from Hermès, composed by Christine Nagel. To watch the video on YouTube, please click here.
Tuesday, 3 July 2018
At the end of my last full-length episode of Love At First Scent, I said I didn't think I'd be able to broadcast another one until around the end of June. Little did I know that a sad family event was just around the corner; everything else had to be put on hold. However, the Persolaise show must now go on, so I'm pleased to inform you that I hope to stream the next episode - the seventeenth! - this Friday 6th July on Facebook Live at 4 pm UK time (11 am New York time). As per usual, it'll be uploaded to my YouTube channel as soon as possible after the live stream.
Please do try to tune in!
Oh, and if you're really quick off the mark you might be able to catch my Instagram Live showcase of a brand that's excited me more than just about any other I've encountered this year; I'm planning to broadcast it today at 5 pm UK time. If you miss it, don't worry: it too will find its way to YouTube before long.
Friday, 29 June 2018
Persolaise Review: Orange Mauresque from Chopard (Alberto Morillas; 2018) + Rose Seljuke, Jasmin Moghol & Miel D'Arabie
Friday, 22 June 2018
A slight, wizard-bearded figure in bright red plimsolls and a wrap-around, teal lab coat, he doesn’t immediately come across as the contrarian that his rare, past interviews suggest he is. However, it’s not long before his anarchic streak makes itself known, punctuating his conversation with an energy that’s as vibrant as his blue eyes. He acknowledges that much of his success stems from the hashish-fuelled Black Afgano – a fragrance so popular, there was a time it seemed to disappear from shop shelves mere moments after a new stock delivery – but he doesn’t want to talk about it.I am delighted to let you know that my very first piece for Wallpaper* was published the other day: an interview with Nasomatto's Alessandro Gualtieri, in which he chats about his new release, Nudiflorum, the possibility of shutting down his brand and the importance of a trip to Sharjah. To read it, please click here.
Friday, 15 June 2018
For more mini-reviews, please click here.
I do declare, I think Cartier are on to another winner. This is the new parfum version of the classic Declaration, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Composed by Mathilde Laurent, this incarnation pays respectful homage to the Jean-Claude Ellena original, adding a subtly weightier vanilla base to the familiar heart of cool, woody cardamom. Dashing work.
Honest description. This is the citrusy-fruity-ambery mademoiselle we all know - for better or worse - with her vanilla-patchouli base made funkier and somewhat broader in the hips. The years of avoiding the altar haven’t been too unkind.
1 Million Lucky from Paco Rabanne (2018)*
Hmmm... can’t say I feel I’ve won the lottery with this one. The new Lucky flanker of 1 Million: released to mark the 10th anniversary of the original and the fact that 60 MILLION BOTTLES of it have been produced so far, according to the brand. This version moves away from the smooth smokiness of the first iteration, towards harsher, coarser, faux-fruity-woody notes. The gambler’s let himself go: instead of a lean build and an energetic attitude, we now have a beer belly, an arrogant boorishness and a permanent scowl. Shame.
Friday, 8 June 2018
For this single-perfume edition of Love At First Scent (first streamed on Instagram, hence the portrait orientation... of which I'm not a fan, but most people don't seem bothered by it...) I've turned to the new Alien Man from Mugler, composed by Jean-Christophe Herault. To watch the video on YouTube, please click here.
Friday, 1 June 2018
I always think it’s interesting when a perfumer makes a stronger version of what was originally meant to be a weightless scent. The exercise seems to be something of an olfactory oxymoron, as ill-advised as the efforts of long-suffering gym-goers who want to be both lithe and capable of lifting a Transit van. The example that invariably comes to my mind is Jean-Claude Ellena’s Cologne Bigarade for Malle. In its more fleeting iteration, it is joy itself: a holographic vision of citrus fruit exploding with vitality. But in its Bigarade Concentrée edition, it feels like it’s trying too hard: a soufflé encumbered by an excess of unnecessary ingredients.
Monday, 28 May 2018
I'm delighted to announce that the latest issue of Tauer Mag features an article by yours truly on the sometimes-vexing subject of vintage perfumes. It's available only in print; click here to order it from the Tauer website. You may be interested to know that this issue comes with a sample of Andy Tauer's new limited edition composition: Les Années 25.
It is with equal pleasure that I can say my writing also pops in the June issue of Business Traveller UK. Under the spotlight in this piece: new fragrances for men. You can buy the magazine either as a print edition or a tablet version.
Thursday, 24 May 2018
Here we go again: same voice, same station, same idea. Only this time, something's different. At first, I couldn't figure out what it was, but then it hit me. Right between the eyes, like a Monday morning straight after a Saturday night that made you forget there was ever a Sunday. It's a different movie. An older movie. You might even call it: a darker movie. You say you wonder what I'm talking about? I wonder if you wonder...
Yes indeed, for my latest Cinema Scent segment on Francine Stock's Film Programme on Radio 4, I descended into the treacherous realms of film noir and Billy Wilder's classic Double Indemnity. To listen to the episode, please click here; as ever, I'd recommend playing it all, but if you're pressed for time, I appear at around the 24-minute mark.
To read the Cinema Scent reviews published here on Persolaise.com, click on this link.
Friday, 18 May 2018
One of five new entries in the Hermessence collection composed by Christine Nagel. This one takes a clean, yet very dark, sultry wood note and wraps it around the swaying hips of the velvety-suede texture we last saw in the masterful Cuir D’Ange. Arresting, subtle work and a great addition to the brand.
Cedre Sambac from Hermès (Christine Nagel; 2018)*
Astonishing contrast between the dry tangy feel of cedar and the indolic, floral sweep of jasmine. The spectacle of the two of them running side by side in perfect balance is an absolute joy to behold.
Bohea Bohème from Mona Di Orio (Fredrik Dalman; 2016)*
Tremendous cardamom/eucalyptus opening, with sugary lavender. Like camphoraceous branches swaying along banks of a pink, crystalline river. Grows thinner and can’t help but disappoint towards the end. Well worth checking out for the first two acts.